wannabe

Budman- When we used to prep blocks we got for the race team we first went through them inside and out. We would scrub them and sometimes hose them out (casting sand) and would visually inspect them and using bottle brushes though every thing. Then dry them- oil em and hone them. A good machine shop should go throgh this for you

wannabe

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Yep, I did that - washed the block a couple of times, cleaned all passages with bottle brushes, chased all the threads, etc. This block was assembled by a machine shop for the first round a couple years ago, but they didn't bother to deburr or hone the lifter bores, obviously. It was running stock lifters then, so the oil reliefs probably prevented any chafing then.

MER Performance

I have to agree with Mike. The Morels are a little larger; but installing them in a Gen VI block that has time on it would not be tight. What is the clearance between the lifter and bore? If there was some galling from the old set it wold cause high spots in the bore. Check the lifter center of body them measure @ wheel area. If you have a little rust in bores from cleaning and causing a tightness oil them and just insert only one lifter and move it around as long as it's properly lubricated.
The only new blocks I know of that can be tight with the Morels is the Dart.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

I agree. Really shouldnt be an issue with the Chevy block. Dart, yes. Sounds like something isnt right there in the bore

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Lifter to bore clearance was checked and came in around 0.0015 +or- a couple tenths. Don't have the numbers written down for each bore, but it was not an issue. I did have some spalling on several lobes on the cam that was in there before the rebuild, but those were on the exhaust lobes and my issues seem to center around the intakes. I felt down the lifter bores with my fingers and did not feel any high spots aside from the sharp edges where the oil gallery holes are.

I'm going to load it up and run it by the shop and have someone look at it who has these things in front of him on a daily basis. I'm just a hack trying to muddle my way through an engine build. Going to defer on this one. I'll let you guys know what I come up with. Thanks for the help.

tpabayflyer

Can you "burnish" the lifter bores? I remember some mopar guys using a ball burnishing tool to setup the lifter bores and de-bur them...... I have never done this but just throwing it out there as it might be able to be done without dis-assembly.......

f_inscreenname

Wow nothing sucks more then having to brake down a motor just after getting it together. I feel your pain.

MER Performance

Morel lifter clearance specs are .001-.0015. over that I would bush the lifter bores.

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Like I said, I'm going from memory, so I could be off a little. I recall that I got a number from Bob as to what it should be, and had it checked, and the number was right there where he recommended it to be. Wish I had written it down with all my other clearances. It's loaded up in the back of the SUV right now, so maybe I will have it checked again. Right now I have the only rear engined 489 powered Toyota Sequoia in town.

I did use a brush to clean out the galleries, but it wasn't anything real stiff or aggressive - definitely not anything I would expect to raise up the metal.

Thanks for the help!

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Had it checked by local guy, and he thinks it is fine. Said he could feel just a little roughness, but only when lifter was lifted way beyond the travel that the cam lobe would achieve. I must admit that when I moved them they seemed to move much more smoothly, so I am wondering if the 70* ambient temperatures had something to do with that versus the 50* temps in the garage the other night.