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Rigging experts, I have a question

Old 04-20-2014, 10:41 AM
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Default Rigging experts, I have a question

I am redoing all my engine mounting. Whoever rigged my boat years ago, was an azz. The aluminum angle brackets were drilled like a hot chick on prom night. They used front and rear engine plates.

What I would like to do, is use the original mounting of the ears of the transmissions, to the inner transom plates, along with the front and rear offshore plates. As of right now, the engines are about 3/4'' too far forward, as the stock merc ears wont align with the inner transom plates. I know it might be overkill, but I do boat in some nasty water, and really want everything tight back there. Fountain didn't exactly overbuild the stringers back in 1990. They are dry, but still.

So, I am gonna buy all new aluminum L brackets, and start from scratch. My thought was to get the engines in place, and install the bolts for the rear ears on the transom plates. Then using the alignment bar, raise or lower the front of the engine till its aligned. Then, start drilling the L brackets. This is where any tips would appreciated. Would I clamp the bracket to the stringer, then drill the holes for the raceplate, or clamp the bracket to the raceplate, and drill the holes for the stringer? Which way works better? This is a SSM plug in style setup. Also, how thick should the L brackets and backing plate be on the opposite side of the stringer? 3/8, 7/16, 1/2?
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:00 PM
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I'm no expert but I just installed a single offshore mount.

I located the bellhousing on the inner transom plate and then placed the engine with an alignment tool. I played with it for quite some time and got the tool to drop in with almost no resistance.

Next, I drilled the mounting holes in the angle on a drill press and then mocked up the vertical aluminum angle (1/2 inch by 3 by 2) and used a c-clamp to hold the angle tight to the offshore bracket and stringer.

Next, I drilled the stringers using the angle as a template.

Once both stringers had the vertical angle in place I drilled the offshore mount, again, using the angle as a guide.

I should add that I continuously kept checking the alignment.

Some pics:




Hope this helps,
Rob
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:02 PM
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Last edited by FIXX; 04-20-2014 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:05 PM
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Last edited by FIXX; 04-20-2014 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:26 PM
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You can see our engine mount system on the thread on water pick-ups. We rigged it this way about 10 years ago when we removed the engines frequently when racing. The advantage of this method is the time to get the engines in and out is about 1/3 the traditional method. As you can see, the support "feet" stay bolted to the motor mounts. We use a 1/2" drive 3' extension....one guy holds the nut and the other just spins out the 2 vertical bolts per mount. It is really fast and easy way to get the engines in and out. We set up all the wiring to the engines with multiple Weather Pack connectors. The only other items to remove are the water inlet line from the sea strainer and the tail pipes.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:30 PM
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I bolted the ears to the transom plates, hung the motor by a chain off the water pump bolt holes so it was even and got it set so the bar slid in and the plate was flush all the way around the bell housing. No humble bearing on the so you line up a flat plate to the drive bell. Once that was set I used a bunch of c clamps to hold the 1/2" angle to the stringer and motor plate, and started drilling. I used all 1/2" hardware and even drilling with a 1/2" bit it all moves around a little bit until tightened down.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by lil red
I bolted the ears to the transom plates, hung the motor by a chain off the water pump bolt holes so it was even and got it set so the bar slid in and the plate was flush all the way around the bell housing. No humble bearing on the so you line up a flat plate to the drive bell. Once that was set I used a bunch of c clamps to hold the 1/2" angle to the stringer and motor plate, and started drilling. I used all 1/2" hardware and even drilling with a 1/2" bit it all moves around a little bit until tightened down.
I do have that disc for the alignment bar that goes into the bellhousing.

All great ideas guys, keep it coming. And happy easter.
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:17 PM
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I will never use 7/16 stainless bolts again just do to the lack of availability. Every store In my area is depleting their supply due to lack of demand. I ran into that nightmare on the rig job I just finished. 1/2 from here on out and the added strength of the 1/2 wont hurt either
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Old 04-20-2014, 04:46 PM
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personally I don't like the use of the transom mount and the front and rear block mount. that makes six points and boats move and twist in spite of what some think. either use the front and rear mount or the front and transom mount. too many points will tend to break things like bellhousings or transmissions when something decides to move.
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:24 PM
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I would think it would tie everything together, the more support the better.
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