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500HP carb- synthetic oil?

Old 09-21-2014, 04:25 PM
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the best advise I can give about doing oil analysis is to find a company that calibrates their testing machines regularly. One thing you can do to find out how well the oil analysis company that you are using is doing on their testing results is try this, take 2 samples of the same oil that is being sample -

Have your buddy send one of the oil samples in under his name and address, plus send your oil sample in under your information. You might be surprise at how the tests comes back for the 2 oil samples that are from the same source.

Again you might be surprise, 2 oil samples coming back with totally different results. Try it is all I can say. If your 2 oil samples from the same source comes back with the same testing results or very very close - BINGO you have a winner and use that oil analysis service.

Last edited by BUP; 09-21-2014 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Navy
I use Blackstone labs to test my used engine oil. I was changing my oil every 25 hours, the lab tests indicated that it was too often. After a few samples, it was determined the 50 hours was a safe interval for MY boat. Mobil 1 20-50 V-Twin for 10 years now with no oil related issues.
I always used the 20/50 V-twin too, and also changed +,- every 25 hours. And like you, never any issues oil related.

Which oil to use can be like Ford vs chebby......
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Kidnova
I always used the 20/50 V-twin too, and also changed +,- every 25 hours. And like you, never any issues oil related.

Which oil to use can be like Ford vs chebby silver-ra-do......
Fixed .
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Navy
I use Blackstone labs to test my used engine oil. I was changing my oil every 25 hours, the lab tests indicated that it was too often. After a few samples, it was determined the 50 hours was a safe interval for MY boat. Mobil 1 20-50 V-Twin for 10 years now with no oil related issues.
Why do you use the V-Twin oil? I know a lot of sport bikers use it, because it is safe for a wet clutch, unlike normal synthetic oil.

But curious why you use that on the boat?

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Slow4me
Why do you use the V-Twin oil? I know a lot of sport bikers use it, because it is safe for a wet clutch, unlike normal synthetic oil.

But curious why you use that on the boat?

Thanks!
It contains more zinc than regular automotive oil. Zinc seems to prolong the life of Hyd flat tappet cams.
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:51 PM
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Well I will most likely get hammered here about this but the bike oils are more shear stable but I was told not to use them outside of a wet clutch system. The source also sells bike oils as well and totally does not recommend them outside of that..

Last edited by BUP; 09-23-2014 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:15 PM
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For the record Mobil One V-twin 10w-40

Phos is 1200 ppm and Zinc is 1300 ppm

Not much there a couple of reasons one is this oil is recommended for a lot of bikes with Catalyst exhaust

Also Valvoline VR 1 Racing oil has a tad more than this V-twin 10w -40.

Mobil One V-Twin 20w-50
Phos 1600 ppm and Zinc 1750 ppm
Not as much as you think, some Hot Rodder oils has more than this. A lot of oils today have reduced Zinc and Phos.

Last edited by BUP; 09-23-2014 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:52 PM
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A lot of people up here use V-twin or did at one time per info from a huge thread posted. NOT SAYING the thread was bad or false info because that was not the case.

It did have good info but a lot of that info came from BITOG site for many years and past years. The poster put forth good info and a lot time so credit do to him in a huge way but was not an expert nor had the credentials of any oil related affiliation. It was touted that V-twin was the ticket. Anyways oil are opinions no matter who they are from. Different oils for different apps and all will work differently..

Last edited by BUP; 09-24-2014 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:21 AM
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FROM the oil additive thread the other day in the General Boating Discussion - 9/22/14 - post # 27.. Hopefully solid info on my part.



" the additive companies say yes to adding them to the oils and the oil companies most of them say no to adding extra additives to their already done oils.

IMO you are upsetting the balance of the oil brand the way it was engineered to perform, especially in the way of the millions of dollars, time of engineering & testing that has been done by some of the real oil manufacturers. Mobil One most likely has done and spent millions in engineering & testing their oil products.

Also over power oil by adding certain additives to the oil can deplete other additives that are designed to work how they were intended to in their balanced state. Example a calcium additive added to the oil can become over based and strip some of the anti wear additives away off the internal engine parts.

The same goes for over basing Phosphorus additives. Also a misconception is a ton of anti wear ZINC is better when in fact its not. Its all about balance and controlling oxidation along with controling heat & wear plus deposit control.

Balance of oil additives is the key along with proper maintenance and a properly tuned engine".

Last edited by BUP; 09-24-2014 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:28 AM
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Going back to the oil change interval - I have been lucky to put 30 hours on my engine the past couple of years (I know - that sucks). If the recommended change interval is 50 hours, I would have to stretch it into next season. However, most articles about winterizing recommend changing the oil as part of the winterizing process to have fresh oil on the bearings and to lessen the opportunity for contaminants and combustion byproducts from possibly damaging the bearings. The voice in my head tells me to change the oil this winter. I'll probably listen to it (good thing I don't listen to all of the voices ), but just thought I would toss that out there. It's a no-brainer for those of you lucky enough to put 100+ hours on your boat every season.
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