payuppsucker

Is that what my 5.9 Cummins has, the powdered metal rods? It look like they were broke on the big end where the cap separates from the rod instead of machined.

Unlimited jd

iTrader: (5)

I think only the 6.7's are powdered metal. Some are tongue and groove, some are fractured cap design.

dereknkathy

back to the orig discussion. what the orig poster needs is a whole boat. there are lots of neglected boats out there that got very little use and the sun burnt the interiors and either the engine froze and cracked or the drive was stolen. and boat is for sale cheap and sometimes free, though rarely with bravos. now you have all the parts...sort of. now strip the boat. engine, drive transom assy. then take the dash, shifter, steering. now you know how it all goes back together. and you have most of the little stuff. automotive block will work if it has marine cam, right compression ratio, right freeze plugs, etc. the engine in some ways is the easiest part to come up with. a whole running boat with beat interior this time of year would be the best buy. and lots of people are selling and NOBODY ELSE is buying...is it possible to make it into a jet boat? if you have a sawzall and a buncha fiberglass mat and resin, then yes it is possible. it is a very bad idea though...

buck35

Op, where are you located, since you are referencing Seattle cr ? I'm just outside of Wenatchee, about a150 miles away.

So2fast5u

Why not a crate 502 from jegs? My boat has a CAR motor in it and I have no troubles other than I keep ripping the drive all up! I think the 502 would be a good fit? Buying a whole boat mite not be a bad idea. I have been thinking of that to get a bravo setup for my boat.

Unlimited jd

iTrader: (5)

The motor is the cheap part, all the accessories add up quick

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

First, have you verified that the hull is solid and not full of rot? Do you know the history of the boat before you bought it? Was it stored inside in a dry location, or out in the elements? Was it left in the water for weeks at a time? A lot of boats of that era, especially the smaller ones, had some corners cut on the hull construction that could make it very easy for water to find its way into the wood coring inside the transom, stringers, bulkheads, etc. This is not always obvious just by looking at it. Something as simple as a hole drilled into a stringer that is not properly sealed can be an avenue for water to wick into the end grain of the wood coring if it was exposed to water for a long time. Things like leaving a boat outside in the rain with no cover and the bilge plug still in can spell the death of the hull. People think "hey, it's a boat - it's meant to get wet". Well, I'm here to tell you, ain't necessarily so. Before you spend a lot of time and money on this project, find a marine surveyor to come out and check the hull with a moisture meter to make sure everything is solid. It should be relatively easy with the engine out of the way. We would hate to read about you busting your behind on this project, only to find out that your stringers are cracking because the coring is all rotted out.

Other than that, what others have said about finding a complete take-out engine assembly and B1 is good advice. Piecing all of this together is going to be much more expensive and time consuming. good luck.

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and since you asked, do yourself a favor and run away from anything that has been run in salt water. You will thank us later.

Black Baja

iTrader: (2)

Correct and they will take about 800hp.

Quick2500

Replacing an engine is easy, everything is already there. Starting with a hole is a different story. As others have said, buy a runner. Get to know it. Repair it when it breaks. Upgrade it. Once you know the ins and outs then take on a project. Even if you find a donor, or all the parts, and manage to get it all bolted together, I can guarantee the next thread will be about troubleshooting the 20 things that are messed up....