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Engine Pre lube systems

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Old 10-25-2014, 11:41 PM
  #21  
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I agree and like I said one of their procedures is to pull sparks plugs, disable fuel and spark and crank for 10 to 15 secs no more than that at any giving time, but make it to a time frame of 45 to 60 seconds total, so basically 4 to 6 engine cranking at 10 to 15 sec each time. it is even in some of their service manuals plus when or if you by a Mercruiser reman long block it was tagged the same way on the engine for info before start up and breakin procedures.

My next question to you, the pics under your name - the last couple 3 or so. Who in the world is the chick or chicks. The one on the puter and this current shot, Wife, girlfriend or lets find something hot and post it because you can. Jeepers Kreepers - nice shots of the 10's.
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:53 PM
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Mild Thunder is very ANTI prelube. He likes it dry.
He is very PRO Mystic so you guys always have that !
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:17 AM
  #23  
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Never mind about the lube or KY what about the info on the pics and your pics to ? Like I asked - wife - girlfriend or lets search for some 10's and post them. A handful of you guys do the same with the pics. I am surprised no one else has brought this up especially since everything else from a thru z has been and will be brought up.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:52 AM
  #24  
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Just another opinion here to throw in, I have been storing my Cars and Boats for 7-8 months at a time for over 40 years now never used a pre lube device and have Never had any lower end failures yet, so I personally don't see the need for one in my applications, Now do I run a large amount of HP? I would like to think so, Do some of my cars run high compression(hard on brgs) yes 13:1 in one of my cars and that engine has not been apart in 42 years. so it seems to work ok for me, and again that is just my opinion, I think the money could be better allocated elsewhere.
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:18 AM
  #25  
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You know what is awesome about the Aeromotive preluber check valve? That its hard to know if it fails and when you happen to check it and find out that its shot, you call Aeromotive to see if its rebuildable (cause its $75) after all its just a cheap spring and a ball. They say no replacements parts why do you ask. Cause it failed. Oh wow I`ve never heard of such a thing in the 200 years Ive been working here the tech guy says. They never break! So rare!!

Ok great well I`m going to order a brass one thats rebuildable from Good Vibrations ( a very nice, heavy duty, well machined piece btw) but Ill just order one because this Aeromotive breaking was just a fluke! They last forever and 3 days!! The port motor will be fiiiiine

Fast forward 3 month...... hmm why is one motor running hotter oil temps? Hmmm.... fast forward another 2 months.. maybe I should check that other bullet proof check valve.... fast forward 10 minutes, yup the piece of **** is busted!

Its letting -6an worth of oil right back in the pan instead of going thru the filter and oil cooler. GREAT product AEROMOTIVE!!



Moral of the story is don`t buy this pile of $hit!!






Much nicer:



Last edited by ICDEDPPL; 10-26-2014 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:08 PM
  #26  
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I put this on last year when I built my oil system.. I have a -10 line from pan to this pump, then line goes to Y block on oil filter boss on block. I use it to pre-lube, and I see about 30 PSI with it. Most engine builders I talked to before assembly said it really isn't necessary. For the $175 for pump or whatever it was, it helps me sleep at night. I mostly use it for oil changes, I take the line after the filter and put it into bucket, flip switch. Super easy.

This pic was a mock up, didn't get installed exactly like that but close. Check value before pump, SOV after.

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Old 11-15-2014, 02:09 PM
  #27  
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Flip off safety switch, crank, watch oil pressure gauge, when it comes up in a few seconds then flip the safety switch to on and will start with some prelubing.
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