Pulled one of my gimbals and the transom is in great shape! Do I still replace it?
#11
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I rigged my 77 scarab 300 for Kaama drives, and ended cutting all of the bulkheads out of the boat due to rot, front stringers were ok. I made 10" solid fiberglass discs where the drives go and used Nidacore for the rest of the transom and engine stringers. I had to move the front engine compartment bulkhead forward 8", and shorten the fuel tank because the trannys are longer.
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I did mine last year, Lots of Fun!!! I replaced the transom core, stringers in the engine compartment, the firewall and stringers all the way up to the helm alongside the gas tank compartment. The bad stuff stopped at the firewall, but I wanted to take that bump out in the lower firewall so I just kept going. I had the gas tank shortened by a foot. Worked out great.
The key is to grind every last bit of gelcoat from the entire engine compartment so as to get a good bond with the new material. I opted to go with epoxy, was worth the extra expense. My goal was to totally re-rig the engine compartment and raise the x demension 2". Nailed it!!
I did all of the grunt work myself and then worked along side a professional to put it all back together.
The bottom line is if you are planning on keeping the boat for a while, if the transom is wet, do and get it over with! Jump in and don't look back!!
The key is to grind every last bit of gelcoat from the entire engine compartment so as to get a good bond with the new material. I opted to go with epoxy, was worth the extra expense. My goal was to totally re-rig the engine compartment and raise the x demension 2". Nailed it!!
I did all of the grunt work myself and then worked along side a professional to put it all back together.
The bottom line is if you are planning on keeping the boat for a while, if the transom is wet, do and get it over with! Jump in and don't look back!!
Last edited by TomR; 01-11-2015 at 08:25 AM.
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Location: Sandown, NH - Sebago Lake Region, ME
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I did mine last year, Lots of Fun!!! I replaced the transom core, stringers in the engine compartment, the firewall and stringers all the way up to the helm alongside the gas tank compartment. The bad stuff stopped at the firewall, but I wanted to take that bump out in the lower firewall so I just kept going. I had the gas tank shortened by a foot. Worked out great.
The key is to grind every last bit of gelcoat from the entire engine compartment so as to get a good bond with the new material. I opted to go with epoxy, was worth the extra expense. My goal was to totally re-rig the engine compartment and raise the x demension 2". Nailed it!!
I did all of the grunt work myself and then worked along side a professional to put it all back together.
The bottom line is if you are planning on keeping the boat for a while, if the transom is wet, do and get it over with! Jump in and don't look back!!
The key is to grind every last bit of gelcoat from the entire engine compartment so as to get a good bond with the new material. I opted to go with epoxy, was worth the extra expense. My goal was to totally re-rig the engine compartment and raise the x demension 2". Nailed it!!
I did all of the grunt work myself and then worked along side a professional to put it all back together.
The bottom line is if you are planning on keeping the boat for a while, if the transom is wet, do and get it over with! Jump in and don't look back!!
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I replaced the transom in my raceboat with Nidacore instead of wood and solid glass where anything is through bolted (drive, k planes). It has worked great for 2 race seasons and I beat the $h!t out of it. 750hp going through a #4 drive on an extension box, no stress cracks at all. I did the Scarab the same way.
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#18
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I will tear up the lakes with my Tahiti jet!