Ring end gaps
02-24-2015, 09:42 AM
#41
Registered
iTrader: (3)
I do not run water stats, and have a crossover . I am pretty certain at all times I have more than enough water moving around and flowing thru the block and heads. When I had rear dumps on the intakes, I had gobs of flow coming from those as well as the stingers in my dry tails at idle with almost no water psi. At 4000rpm, the water dumping with 15-20psi out the dumps is huge. I've blown the hose off the sea pump going to the coolers before at speed. The 1.25 hose, transom mounted pickup, and merc raw water pump, can move some serious water. Filled the bilge with a ton of water in 30 seconds. Freaked me out !
As for ring gaps and thermal expansion, what do the oems figure in for thermal expansion? For example, in the northern states, starting a cold engine when it's -20* F, and then it warms up to 210*. Then you have some that have aluminum blocks as well as iron blocks. What are they running for ring gaps?
Also, has anyone ever compared the temp on the rear cylinders vs the front cykinders on a GM big block in a automotive application?
02-24-2015, 10:12 AM
#42
Platinum Member
Not many. And imo really the way to go for running a water thermostat.
I do not run water stats, and have a crossover . I am pretty certain at all times I have more than enough water moving around and flowing thru the block and heads. When I had rear dumps on the intakes, I had gobs of flow coming from those as well as the stingers in my dry tails at idle with almost no water psi. At 4000rpm, the water dumping with 15-20psi out the dumps is huge. I've blown the hose off the sea pump going to the coolers before at speed. The 1.25 hose, transom mounted pickup, and merc raw water pump, can move some serious water. Filled the bilge with a ton of water in 30 seconds. Freaked me out !
As for ring gaps and thermal expansion, what do the oems figure in for thermal expansion? For example, in the northern states, starting a cold engine when it's -20* F, and then it warms up to 210*. Then you have some that have aluminum blocks as well as iron blocks. What are they running for ring gaps?
Also, has anyone ever compared the temp on the rear cylinders vs the front cykinders on a GM big block in a automotive application?
I do not run water stats, and have a crossover . I am pretty certain at all times I have more than enough water moving around and flowing thru the block and heads. When I had rear dumps on the intakes, I had gobs of flow coming from those as well as the stingers in my dry tails at idle with almost no water psi. At 4000rpm, the water dumping with 15-20psi out the dumps is huge. I've blown the hose off the sea pump going to the coolers before at speed. The 1.25 hose, transom mounted pickup, and merc raw water pump, can move some serious water. Filled the bilge with a ton of water in 30 seconds. Freaked me out !
As for ring gaps and thermal expansion, what do the oems figure in for thermal expansion? For example, in the northern states, starting a cold engine when it's -20* F, and then it warms up to 210*. Then you have some that have aluminum blocks as well as iron blocks. What are they running for ring gaps?
Also, has anyone ever compared the temp on the rear cylinders vs the front cykinders on a GM big block in a automotive application?
02-24-2015, 10:15 AM
#43
hey Joe... (Mild Thunder) just because you have a ton of volume doesn't mean its cooling... the secret to cooling an engine is to allow the water to stay in the block long enough to transfer heat away from the cylinder... not tryin to be a dickhead here.. it just comes naturally lamo
02-24-2015, 10:30 AM
#46
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iTrader: (3)
hey Joe... (Mild Thunder) just because you have a ton of volume doesn't mean its cooling... the secret to cooling an engine is to allow the water to stay in the block long enough to transfer heat away from the cylinder... not tryin to be a dickhead here.. it just comes naturally lamo
02-24-2015, 10:32 AM
#47
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iTrader: (3)
hey Joe... (Mild Thunder) just because you have a ton of volume doesn't mean its cooling... the secret to cooling an engine is to allow the water to stay in the block long enough to transfer heat away from the cylinder... not tryin to be a dickhead here.. it just comes naturally lamo
02-24-2015, 10:38 AM
#48
Banned
iTrader: (1)
I have never seen an engine COME from the 3 I listed without a circulating pump. We did testing with crossovers using temp sensors on the blocks 20 years ago in real world conditions (out on the water in a boat). Shortly after I sent back all the crossover systems and have run circulating pumps on EVERYTHING I have built since. You would chit yourself if you did the same tests. There is a lot to be said about even engine temps not to mention it allows you to build a tighter tolerance engine that lasts longer. We are currently spending a ton designing a dry sump serpentine belt that uses a circulating pump for the engines we build. In the past we have altered the old Merc efi system to work but we are looking for something better.
02-24-2015, 10:39 AM
#49
I'll tell you this... a hot engine makes considerably more power than a cool one does!! its all about balance... the rear of my 1100s are as I stated earlier dribblers -6 hoses with a restrictor in them and front discharge hoses are -12 also with a restrictor in them... I won't post how HOT I run mine because I don't wanna put up with all the bullchit replies I'm gonna get!!! but what I will say is that back in my Funny Car days.. I wouldn't stage the car till the temp hit 290 to 300 Deg F... what's that tell yaw'll?
sit down! shut up! and hang on!!!
sit down! shut up! and hang on!!!
02-24-2015, 10:39 AM
#50
Registered
iTrader: (1)
The faster the water flows, the more it will cool.
Just like air temp, add in some wind and heat is removed quicker.
Thus us in the North really only care about the Wind Chill index vs the actual air temp index.
Fitting example right now being in the very NE.
Again, this is for open cooling systems. Not closed cooling.
Last edited by SB; 02-24-2015 at 10:49 AM.
