Keith Atlanta

I have 3 vehicles that are high mileage over 100K miles. None leak oil. But, all of them burn a little over 4000 mile oil changes. I am in Florida so winter temps arent a problem. I dont want to use the high mileage oils that fix seals however, I have been considering running synthetic 10W-40 or at least something heavier in all of them. Or, should I run the 5W-30 with an additive?

What do you gurus recommend? Heavier oil or additive or both?

2006 Range Rover 5W-30 160K miles
2006 Volvo 5W-30 120K miles
2005 F150 5W-30 140K miles


No, dont even ask to sell or trade. The wifes volvo might go for a small suv but my Rover aint going nowhere, Ive had it since almost new.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried 5w30 synthetic ?

I've got some high milers as well.

2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee hemi, bought new, currently 178k miles . looks and drives like new. I've never used any fancy oils in this vehicle. Just 5w20 , and whatevers on sale. Mostly, farm and fleet house brand oil. By 3k miles, I maybe add 1/2 quart.

2004 Lincoln Town car , 145k , runs and drives like new. By 3k miles, oil level still good. Same cheapy oil.

1997 Chevy K3500 dually 454. 99k miles. This one gets synthetic 10w30. It works a little harder towing the boat and all.

Modern vehicles are much better today. I remember when if you had 100k miles they were oil burning , rod knocking , rusted out, and ready for the junkyard.

Keith Atlanta

Yeah, I run synthetic in the Rover and Volvo. The Rover burns about 1/2 qt by oil change and the Volvo burns a qt or more. I drive the living hell out of the Rover like its a go-kart. The Volvo is babied yet it burns more oil, my wife drives under the speed limit. Gets more than the life out of tires and brakes. Me and the Rover get 1/2 th life out of tires and brakes.... so I am sure you see whats going on here. LOL

I am trying to:
-Prevent burning so much oil
-Keep them both going for another 150K

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

I do recall, reading on the web about the 8.1L Chevy truck engines. I saw where some guys were switching to a heavier oil, and it stopped almost all of the oil consumption.

It be worth a try. Sounds like you know your vehicles well enough to be able to determine if it helped or not. Being in a hot climate like Florida , I don't think I'd sweat the winter rating too much.

Gimme Fuel

I am a big fan of the Lucas Oil Stabilizer product. I run 15-50W Mobil 1 in my 8.1L with a quart of the Lucas Syn oil stabilizer. That truck is not a daily driver so it is either pulling heavy or being stomped on because I just like to hear the bbc and the flowmaster hehe. 158k miles and runs like a Kenyan.

waybomb

Used Mobil 1 gold cap 5-30 on my e430. I sold it in good running condition at 357,000 miles. Original drivetrain.
I'm a believer.
Oh, and I changed the oil when the computer told me to, and that was every 18,000-20,000 miles.

If you are using oil check you breather system. My engine had a baffle system in the valve cover that needed to be cleaned once. Oil use went away.

sonicss42

What weight? My '02 with only 80K loves oil but no leaks and runs great. Leaves me scratching my head.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I have a Buick 3.8 driver/beater with just shy of 200K miles; family owned since new. I run Quaker State High Mileage with a quart of Lucas.

My 8.1L 2500HD has 99,500 miles on it, and I run the same as above. I have not owned/driven it enough to weigh in on consumption; but on a roundtrip from VA to Key West over the holidays; hauling a Harley and a small camper: it didn't drink any.

7.3L PSD F350 Dually with 130K miles: Rotella 15w40 and Lucas.

I do like the Lucas Oil products. I use it in my boat as well.

wannabe

Mobil 1 or Valvoline synthetic. 10-40 in Florida is good.

A GOOD filter is important too- Wix, AC have flow back flapps to keep oil in the system. Stay away from FRAM

Keith Atlanta

I called Amsoil and they said they never recommend running a higher viscosity than mfg recommendation. They said it actually increases heat due to more drag.

Left me shaking my head since I would assume the clearances from wear would absorb it.