cdaniel525

iTrader: (1)

Im rebuilding my mark IV 454 (330hp block) and am going to replace the oil pump as it ingested some water...
The rebuild is going to be higher compression (~9.5:1) forged pistons, same cam as before Crane H-296-2, Edelbrock 6155 heads (prev) on motor... stock crank/rods

That said Im having a hard time finding/deciding on an oil pump! Probably going to get a Melling
Should I use a standard volume or go with a high volume?? part # if anyone can recommend one!

Also, does anyone have part # for the pick up tube??

Thanks in advance!!
Chris

EDIT: Worth mentioning this is with the standard 8qt oil pan

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (1)

My engine builder suggests using a high pressure, standard volume pump. His reasoning is that a boat engine is held at constant RPM's as apposed to a car that has changes in RPM's.

14 apache

iTrader: (1)

M77HV melling and a good drive shaft for the pump. It will be plenty good.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

You have a similar set up as I once did on a pair of 454/330's. Bought a 92 28' challenger new and had the engines out within a month. I ended up using stock pumps. They performed well however as 14 Apache mentioned the m77hv's would be a good choice. Same ones I put on a pair of freshly rebuilt 496's. They performed great on the Dino anyway. Old school rule of thumb use to be 10 pds per 1k rpms's. Assuming your bearing clearances are set up to spec you'll be fine. Btw as mentioned above I had very similar builds. I used the 502/465 hp cams. Dyno'd at a very solid 485 hp.

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

Clearances will determine pump more then anything.... what are they??

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Are you going to use your stock/original pan? You can reuse your stock pick up tube but it's a good idea to tac/braze weld it back in place. Just ck before you remove to keep the same depth in your pan. If I'm not mistaking it's around 1/2"". But again just ck your old pump for correct depth, etc. Also not a bad idea is to use some clay putty btwn your pick up screen and pan and dry fit to make sure your at the correct height. Just add gasket thickness to squish. Not a bad idea to measure old and new pump from bottom machined surface (mounting side) to both inside and end of pump shaft. They should be the same but always good to confirm proper dist hieght. I've seen this happen only a couple times however only takes 5 minutes.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

i just rebuilt my 340 horse 454s.i used mellings 10778 pumps,they are high volume,high pressure.they may be a little overkill but i don,t plan on rebuilding them again for another 1600 hrs.

cdaniel525

iTrader: (1)

The M77HV is my main runner right now... My stock pump is def out of equation, lol


I will check with the machine shop once the short block is back together... not there yet. Appreciate the advice and will definitely ask them about the M77HV vs an even higher volume or possibly pressure if the clearances need such!



Thanks, getrdunn... I am using stock pan, so Ill def measure it and test fit with putty as suggested!! Same goes with tack welding the pickup!! Thanks sir!

Thank Mike... Ill look into the 10778 pump as well... esp if my machinist says I need a HVHP

Black Baja

iTrader: (2)

If you didn't have any problems with the old setup and doing a basic rebuild only using new Pistons, rings and bearings. Why not use the same part number pump (new) over again. If the engine gave you a bunch of trouble free hours and no bearing issues I would go with what was in it previously...

cdaniel525

iTrader: (1)

Solid point BB.... Ill have to see if there are any markings on the pump. The motor had been rebuilt in the past so Im sure its not the original...