Going through electric fuel pumps. Why?
#11
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#13
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Ayuh,... You Do have the fuel filter, Before the pump, Right,..??
#14
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I have run dead headed Mallory 140's for years. They are just a basic vane pump that is rebuildable. I have mine mounted in the bottom of my bilge. I also have the inlet hose a little extra long so it creates sort a gas trap so it has fuel to start siphoning right away. I had one issue with the brushes when I stored outside with some corrosion. It's supposed to be sealed, but condensation from the temperature must have done something.
#15
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Carter Competition Series Electric Fuel pumps are universal rotary vane electric fuel pumps designed and engineered for constant use, Hi-Performance, and quiet operation. These positive displacement pumps are unique in that fuel cools the motor, No points to burn out, No shaft seals subject to deterioration and leakage, ''Free Flow'' constant fuel flow, Fuel intake strainer. Many models are designed to fit your specific needs and power requirements, all mounting hardware and bracket included. They are engineered to operate with Leaded, Unleaded, Gasohol, fuel additives, and Race gas.
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What I found is the worst for all electric fuel pumps is no fuel at the pump. I've been told that elec fuel pumps don't like to suck and are really designed to push fuel (that's why most auto fuel pumps are in the tank now) and as far as I can tell it's good advice. That's why I have my fuel filter/separator just before the pump. I've taken apart boats that have sat for 10 years and the filters still had (bad) gas in them. A little gas from the filter to prime the pump now and failures have gone way down.
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What I found is the worst for all electric fuel pumps is no fuel at the pump. I've been told that elec fuel pumps don't like to suck and are really designed to push fuel (that's why most auto fuel pumps are in the tank now) and as far as I can tell it's good advice. That's why I have my fuel filter/separator just before the pump. I've taken apart boats that have sat for 10 years and the filters still had (bad) gas in them. A little gas from the filter to prime the pump now and failures have gone way down.
Last edited by f_inscreenname; 04-28-2015 at 11:24 AM.
#16
if you have to"tap" the pump to get it going again, i have found that's usually a sign of either a cheaply made armature and its shorting out in spots.....or the brushes are wearing out and not getting good contact....
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
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Tapping to get a Holley pump working to me says debris in the pump. Holley pumps are very sensitive to debris. Fuel filter prior to pump in all applications, and the pump should be as close to the tank as possible.
#20
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How many fuel filters and at what micron rating do you have before your pumps ? If you have any before your fuel pumps it needs to around 100 micron rated. Your lower micron rated filters will cause a restriction. Electric fuel pumps hate to pull fuel they do a lot better pushing fuel. Restriction inline will cut your fuel pumps longevity.
Also when changing fuel filters you need to fill them with fresh fuel then install so the fuel pumps can prime and prime a lot faster. Again they hate no fuel running thru them.
When you winterize or any form of engine layup you need to use fresh gas - 2 stroke motor oil (50 to 1 or 60 to 1) and a quality fuel stabilizer in and outboard portable gas tank with an outboard fuel line & primer bulb - hooked to you first incoming fuel inlet engine side - prime your fuel system with the primer bulb before starting the engines, then run the engine for 15 to 20 minutes on that fuel mix. This is your complete fuel system lubrication and your complete engine fogging plus your complete fuel stabilization from beginning to end for proper lay up.
This has been the way the boat trade has been doing lay up for years for less problems after afterwards.. You need to a use a quality 2 stroke outboard oil in the mix. Mecruiser 10 to 1 is way off base and cakes to much oil on the spark plugs, valves and combustion chambers. The marine trade with current fuel blends likes when boat owners do not properly lay up their fuel system. I am giving you a tip here. Use it.
Do not forget to throw fuel stabil in your gas tank as well and it good to throw a bit of 2 stroke oil to. Something like a 120 to 1 or 150 to 1.
Also when changing fuel filters you need to fill them with fresh fuel then install so the fuel pumps can prime and prime a lot faster. Again they hate no fuel running thru them.
When you winterize or any form of engine layup you need to use fresh gas - 2 stroke motor oil (50 to 1 or 60 to 1) and a quality fuel stabilizer in and outboard portable gas tank with an outboard fuel line & primer bulb - hooked to you first incoming fuel inlet engine side - prime your fuel system with the primer bulb before starting the engines, then run the engine for 15 to 20 minutes on that fuel mix. This is your complete fuel system lubrication and your complete engine fogging plus your complete fuel stabilization from beginning to end for proper lay up.
This has been the way the boat trade has been doing lay up for years for less problems after afterwards.. You need to a use a quality 2 stroke outboard oil in the mix. Mecruiser 10 to 1 is way off base and cakes to much oil on the spark plugs, valves and combustion chambers. The marine trade with current fuel blends likes when boat owners do not properly lay up their fuel system. I am giving you a tip here. Use it.
Do not forget to throw fuel stabil in your gas tank as well and it good to throw a bit of 2 stroke oil to. Something like a 120 to 1 or 150 to 1.
Last edited by BUP; 04-28-2015 at 01:41 PM.