Nothing left to check? VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring
05-29-2015, 10:44 PM
#521
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SB - OMC mainly recommended the Champion spark plugs only . Volvo Penta on the 5.0 Gi only recommended champion spark plugs rv12yc again ONLY - no other spark plug for that with Vortec heads. Volvo - with the 4.3 carb app - use Champion spark plugs.
. Volvo other recommendations depending on the cylinder heads was AC MR43LTS Vortec heads and AC MR43T- Non Vortec heads and of course Volvo across the board was Champion spark plugs RS12YC Vortec heads or RV15YC -4 for Non Vortec heads.
OMC had other service bulletins about misfires especaailly for the 4.3 L and said you have to USE the champion spark plugs - heat range and less resistance of the spark plug was in their mix of the Service Bulletin as well for a jist of it.
Again Volvo Penta and OMC Sterndrives was the exact same engine Dec 1993 thru Dec 1998. No difference other a slight shade of paint of the outdrive and engine here and there , some labeling on the outdrive and engine and the motor oil recommendations .
we were OMC Sterndrive, Volvo Penta , Mercruiser, Merc, Johnson & Evinrude certified and I had a master certified tech back then. Master cert back then was the chits in the marine industry. I am NOT MASTER Certified but can hold my own if needed or least I think in my own mind that I can.- LOL
We were just trained (no certs) on the Yamaha Sterndrives as well back in the mid 90's
. Volvo other recommendations depending on the cylinder heads was AC MR43LTS Vortec heads and AC MR43T- Non Vortec heads and of course Volvo across the board was Champion spark plugs RS12YC Vortec heads or RV15YC -4 for Non Vortec heads.
OMC had other service bulletins about misfires especaailly for the 4.3 L and said you have to USE the champion spark plugs - heat range and less resistance of the spark plug was in their mix of the Service Bulletin as well for a jist of it.
Again Volvo Penta and OMC Sterndrives was the exact same engine Dec 1993 thru Dec 1998. No difference other a slight shade of paint of the outdrive and engine here and there , some labeling on the outdrive and engine and the motor oil recommendations .
we were OMC Sterndrive, Volvo Penta , Mercruiser, Merc, Johnson & Evinrude certified and I had a master certified tech back then. Master cert back then was the chits in the marine industry. I am NOT MASTER Certified but can hold my own if needed or least I think in my own mind that I can.- LOL
We were just trained (no certs) on the Yamaha Sterndrives as well back in the mid 90's
05-29-2015, 10:49 PM
#522
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Well I guess the beast form the Northeast is fixed. Glad we & everyone stuck with the Mefi IV conversion adaption. I had to pull a few strings to get the instruction sheet emailed to me. I do have it but is in storage and who knows if I could ever find it. I thought of the adaption harnesses in my head and tried to post the way it needs to be installed. The coil drivers were a question mark at first because I knew Mercruiser used them for their small block app conversions but was not 100% about the Volvo GSI / Gi.. Anyways this was a long one and a hard one. Too bad we did'nt have pics of this from the start., engine, set up, and MEFI IV and Y harness adaptions installed..
The MEFI IV conversion instruction sheet the pictures are worth a thousand words - more than the words themselves.
Just to make sure the boat is running well now - is this correct ?.
Buck thanks for the compliment.
The MEFI IV conversion instruction sheet the pictures are worth a thousand words - more than the words themselves.
Just to make sure the boat is running well now - is this correct ?.
Buck thanks for the compliment.
Last edited by BUP; 05-30-2015 at 01:28 AM.
05-29-2015, 11:06 PM
#523
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Pliant I hear you but try a correct champion spark plug in a stock marine NON HP model from the 80's and 90's - gapped correctly and make sure the electrode is perfectly centered and the plugs work well in these apps especially carb apps. Even carb apps in the early 2000's. just saying.
Again I understand and said already most are going say junk and "I would not use them in my lawn mower". IMO, NGK are the best plugs for a lot apps except Johnson and Evinrude 2 stroke outboards 2004 and back. I do know this 4 sure I would not run champions in any Jetskis or Motorcycles.
Again I understand and said already most are going say junk and "I would not use them in my lawn mower". IMO, NGK are the best plugs for a lot apps except Johnson and Evinrude 2 stroke outboards 2004 and back. I do know this 4 sure I would not run champions in any Jetskis or Motorcycles.
05-30-2015, 11:28 PM
#525
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Had this in my email so I guess I will post here since it was brought up a bit here.
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/0...gine-problems/
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/0...gine-problems/
05-31-2015, 04:26 PM
#526
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Great link BUP. So I think I am sorted out. I changed the engine oil and filter to the Delo oil you recommended.
Here is my last concern. My oil pressure still reads 65-70 at times (near or at WOT). It drops with run time. I never get on it when it's cold either. I idle for around 20 mins usually first through the no wake zone.
At cruise it normally settles around 55-65.
Here's the thing - it may be my gauge or sender, but when I get on it hard, or sometimes randomly at cruise my oil pressure gauge drops rapidly to zero (snaps to zero) then snaps back to a "normal" reading. Sometimes it snaps to zero and doesn't come back. At idle it never does this though. Idle is usually 25 when super hot, or 35-40 when its cooled down a bit.
I don't hear any lifter or engine noise when this happens. I know I have the right oil pump in.. I even called to make sure after I had this "issue".
Tomorrow I need to put a mechanical gauge on it, but in the meantime, does this even sound possible? I thought even with a pump relief valve problem, or oil passage blockAge, pressure would gradually decrease, not snap to zero than back like a pogo stick. Tapping on the gauge doesn't change anything.
Maybe I have a bad connection and when I am running the engine hard it has a voltage drop at the gauges and they lose some power. I noticed a lot of my gauges do this jumping while I'm cranking to start.
Here is my last concern. My oil pressure still reads 65-70 at times (near or at WOT). It drops with run time. I never get on it when it's cold either. I idle for around 20 mins usually first through the no wake zone.
At cruise it normally settles around 55-65.
Here's the thing - it may be my gauge or sender, but when I get on it hard, or sometimes randomly at cruise my oil pressure gauge drops rapidly to zero (snaps to zero) then snaps back to a "normal" reading. Sometimes it snaps to zero and doesn't come back. At idle it never does this though. Idle is usually 25 when super hot, or 35-40 when its cooled down a bit.
I don't hear any lifter or engine noise when this happens. I know I have the right oil pump in.. I even called to make sure after I had this "issue".
Tomorrow I need to put a mechanical gauge on it, but in the meantime, does this even sound possible? I thought even with a pump relief valve problem, or oil passage blockAge, pressure would gradually decrease, not snap to zero than back like a pogo stick. Tapping on the gauge doesn't change anything.
Maybe I have a bad connection and when I am running the engine hard it has a voltage drop at the gauges and they lose some power. I noticed a lot of my gauges do this jumping while I'm cranking to start.
Last edited by nunnink23; 05-31-2015 at 04:32 PM.
05-31-2015, 04:29 PM
#527
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It's fine. Use a high quality Wix or etc filter.
05-31-2015, 05:12 PM
#529
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The sender needs to match the gauge as far as ohms range . not sure if any of that was changed - gauge or sender or both. Also make sure your connections are clean and corrosion free. Do not use a fram oil filter for an FYI. Wix good, Baldwin, amsoil EA,
