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Old 07-13-2015, 10:08 PM
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Think the holley marine 4500 comes with 98s squared . If your runnung a dry exhaust and pro stock cam 600 rpm might be a litlle tough . Sounds like your mellow for almost 600 c.i. double check your throttle plates are not open too far fuel pressure not too high , all the right bleeds jets power valves bleeds actually made it into your particular carb ,aed usually takes a few extra steps to make sure all the right peps are paying attention on assembly. A aed 1050 should holeshot well on a 588 and should not wilt flowers at 50 feet or load up your motor
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:11 PM
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smart azz comment from the bike guy in 3 2 1.
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:14 PM
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Man , that guy up there in Chicago can type fast ...
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:15 PM
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Damn , i just bumped somebody..
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:27 PM
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Alot of carb stuff is based around the car world. A car with a high stall convertor, or manual trans, doesn't see the load at idle like a boat can have. When you shift a boat into gear, there is a big load on the engine at idle, especially when you start getting into tall pitch props, big diameter props, heavy boat, etc. This is why you simply can't get a marine carb'd engine to idle with a lean Air fuel ratio in nuetral. Plus, the idle jet, has a huge effect on a car that is street driven. When cruising down the road with minimal throttle opening, the Idle feed jet has a big influence on the cruise scenerio. The car may cruise at 45mph with 5 or 10 percent throttle opening. A boat, "Cruises", at sometimes 50% throttle opening, or more. We cruise on main circuits, they cruise on mainly idle, or transition circuits. Point being, marine carbs can usually like a larger idle feed restrictor than a car.

I've never really seen the need for a 3rd circuit in a big cubic inch, marine application. Now, a high revving small block working with a trans brake, maybe. A modern 4500 style carb, on a 588ci engine, should not have issues with getting booster signal. Holley, who was a supplier to mercury marine, had a pretty good idea of the marine world. They only have a 2 circuit marine dominator, and that's what quick fuel has as well. Most N/A marine engines i've been around, do just fine with a 2 circuit, whether its a 4150 or 4500 style carb. You can block the 3rd circuit if desired.

At the end of the day, the 02 sensors show who's carbs work well, and whos dont. Air fuel ratio curves should not be like a scribbled line up/down/up down/ thru the rpm band. They should be nice and linear, and richen up as rpm's increase. Not run fat, then lean out as rpm increases, like so many supposedly awesome carbs do when you put a wideband on them.
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
if you go out 2.5 turns on the screws, does it still stall when putting in gear?
It worked for me, dont think im out 2.5 but I was going to put 8 pieces of tape on my flame arrester and screw them in and notate. At least I would know where im at.
Bought the boat in NY and it had different gears, and its 20 degrees cooler than South Carolina. Put in gear and it fell on its face. I didnt do that as it was 105 degrees and opted to try the following.

Went down to the ramp and was told to only do the perimeter of the carbs. That did nothing to solve. I backed out interior bleeds 1/4 then 1/2 turn from where they were at.
Put the motor in gear and it stayed alive, considering it was strapped to the trailer and having to push all that resistance, it should work great w boat floating. I will find out this weekend.
Should all four corners be turned the same amount or is the dominator different ??
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:29 AM
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without tuning with a wideband, going to say again...pissing in the wind, just went thru all this with my blow thru deal, need to see what the AFR is, locking the advance will help the idle a lot, you could have power valves blown or leaking. Sounds like it way rich @ idle but again without the 02 ??? I set up a temp wideband with clips on the battery and toggle switch and run the bung in #5 header tube and works great and lives. I am not sure with AED but quickfuels have removable idle bleeds in the meetering blow and idle air in the main body, working with these will cure your issues, but takes time and again a 02 to get it right...
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:33 AM
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mild thunder can u give me a call when u got a few 978 490 5281
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:58 PM
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ok so we put some int bleeds in went down from .070 to .055 that helped a bunch but I am still having the idle issue I found this out after a 1 mile cruise run at 3500 then coming to no wake the motors idled at 700rpm no problem for like 45 seconds then they started to fall down in rpms and I had to crack the throttles a hair. I think they r rich at idle, think some bigger idle bleeds will help .040 in there now its much close with the int bleeds cruise rpm is like 13-13.5-1 seemed to help with idle slightly also I have a little more time before it wants to quit
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by prostockcat
ok so we put some int bleeds in went down from .070 to .055 that helped a bunch but I am still having the idle issue I found this out after a 1 mile cruise run at 3500 then coming to no wake the motors idled at 700rpm no problem for like 45 seconds then they started to fall down in rpms and I had to crack the throttles a hair. I think they r rich at idle, think some bigger idle bleeds will help .040 in there now its much close with the int bleeds cruise rpm is like 13-13.5-1 seemed to help with idle slightly also I have a little more time before it wants to quit
Hate to be negative, but even if you get your Dominators to idle at 700 RPM in gear, it will be too much speed around the docks and it they will still behave inconsistently. If you have Bravos, shifting into gear a 1000+ RPMs you are asking to stick the clutches. Why not sell both these carbs for $1000?...then you only need to spend a another $1500 to get a pair of the Holley Dominator Marine carbs. They are bolt on as delivered. It will be like getting a new boat!

Last edited by BenPerfected; 07-21-2015 at 06:48 AM.
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