stlliberator

iTrader: (1)

Bought a Formula 311 from a marina that took ownership of it. The motors haven't ran since 07. The marina did drain the fuel tanks and disconnect fuel lines from motors. They also did run a compression tests on the motors last year. So the motors were turned over last year just enough for compression. They have not ran since 07. Going to start them next weekend. So just wondering what I should all do. I am going to do the basics. Oil change,(with some additive), plugs, wires, cap, rotor, impeller. I think Im going to spray some fogging oil in the spark plug holes to coat the cylinder walls with some oil. Also thinking about opening the oil fill holes on the valve covers and spraying fogging oil in there too, to maybe get some oil on the rockers.

Is there anything else I should do?

Im going to leave the coil wire off, and crank the motor over to get some oil flowing and hopefully get a oil pressure reading on the gauge.

apollard

I would pull the distributor and prime the engines before I turn them over too much. Cranking them dry like that might cause some damage (if they didn't with the compression test).

horsepower1

Personally, I'd take the time to pull the dist. and valve covers and prime the engine till you have oil coming from all the pushrods instead of cranking it over. Fogging the cylinders isn't a bad idea but don't get carried away. You really don't want oil above the pistons. A squirt can and a little oil on the rockers wouldn't hurt either. If this is a flat tappet cam I would avoid cranking the engine more than necessary to ensure it's going to fire first hit. I'd try and treat the cam like a new flat tappet and not let the initial rpm drop much below 1000-1500 for a few minutes. If it's a roller then you're ok.

Ha...apollard beat me to it.

CDShack

All of the above and I usually squirt a little fogger oil, atf or "Marvel Mystery Oil" in the intake while I'm priming so when it rolls over there's at least something on the dry rings. Will smoke, but it clears up!

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Oil prime however thru the oil sender or pull distrib and prime the old method way just before start up. Yes you need to oil prime all the way thru the push rods and down the rockers - you can check this with covers off or inspection camera in valve covers

There is alot more that is forgotten when a boat sits this long.

I would run the engines on a new portable gas tank until you know that the bottom of the gas tank is 100 % clean and not lifting crap off the bottom from a washing machine effect. Keep in mind E 10 gas is a great cleaner as well - it will lift crap off the bottom of the gas tank. Just because it was drained, it still built condensation thru the years and you can never drain a fuel tank100 % empty so that portion dried up leaving varnish in the bottom or at least in the corners of the gas tank. Also small bugs can enter thru the fuel vent down into the tank. All fuel vents and their lines need to be checked, cleaned and clear - a huge missed by all except me of course lol

Next you need to change all rubber fuel line components because internally they are shot and will send tiny little pieces of rubber thru the fuel system and into the fuel injectors or carb apps. If Fuel injection app - the fuel injectors will need to be tested and cleaned and tested after the cleaning. Carb apps most likely will need to be rebuilt and checked for internal corrosion.

You most likely will have a few ??? electrical gremlins some where in whatever systems.

Flame arrestor cleaned and the throttle plate(s) check especially for corrosion and what we have is dirt dabbers that get into these areas all the time.

Possible shift cable problems - possible at both ends - control box and or engine / outdrive side - and I would change out all the external bellows -huge tip here and a piece of mind regardless - they may look good but when trimmed full up and down - they could rip out on the water. huge water leak into the boat then. I would check the gimbal bearing and if greaseable U joints, grease them because 9 years of sitting the grease has fallen out of suspension including grease from the gimbal bearing.

Steering cable condition if applicable ? since it has not moved in 9 years ? Power steering fluid and condition and level ?

Fuel pumps most likely will not be 100 % and including if they have mechanical fuel pumps as the rubber diaphram will dry rot internally overtime.

i would do fuel pressure tests when you get the engine running.

Fuel tank anti siphon valve possible could be or get stuck whenever. I just change them out regardless a cheap price to pay for good measure.

I would pressure test the lower unit for any seal leakage when you change the gear oil. I would bet more so than not a seal or two will leak in sort order form the outdrive portion or leak while you are testing for it. Epspecially if this boat sat in humid / hot then cold climates including indoor storage. Huge temp swings effect all of this over time.

airjunky

iTrader: (2)

Like he said. I would be more worried about the fuel system than the engine internals. As long as it hasnt had water dripping in the breather or crazy humidity or parked with nasty oil ect ect give it a good prime to keep the lifters from hammering and such . 07 lot of marinas were still pre ethanol so you may have dodged the titanium salt crystal bullet..just depends on how good they prepped it.gotta tell us how much you scored it for ,after the score..