79formula

I have completely assembled my longblock. I have 088 heads. I used ARP bolts with the washers. I am mocking everything up. I changed alot so I have many details to finalize with bolts, brackets, hoses, etc. Anyways, I bolted my EMI Thunder exhausts up. They went on but were super hard to get on. The bottom of the manifold hits the head bolts. I would like to let the manifold come down to give me better port alignment and also make the install easier.

I think my options are:

1: Grind head bolts 1/16 of an inch.
2: Remove the little washer under the ARP bolt.
3: Take a flapper wheel and sand the underside of the manifold to give me the 1/16" clearance.
4: Run it as is with everything touching and jammed on.

I don't want to compromise the headbolts in any way. I am leaning toward clearancing the manifold. Any reason not to?

mickeymcclgn

iTrader: (1)

what exhaust manifold gaskets were you using? Remflex makes a super thick gasket that we have used with good success on headers/manifolds that the flange surface has been warped alittle. They might give you that extra smidge you're looking for. They are twice the cost unfortunately.

Mr Maine

With iron heads why do you need the washers?

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

i would remove the washers on the bolts that hit and apply extreme pressure lube on the underside of those bolts heads.

79formula

Can I remove the washers one at a time and not have to get new gaskets and do the bolts in sequence again?

f_inscreenname

washers

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

yes

79formula

I removed the washers. It worked perfectly.

Young Performance

Just be sure that the bolt holes are tapped deep enough and the bolt doesn't start to bottom out before it tightens down to the proper torque. You would lose some clamping load on the head gasket if that happens.
Eddie

sutphen 30

from his other threads,he has 454's so the holes are open to the water ports,,no need to worry about depth,now if they were gen5/6 502's,then he'd definetely have to check.