zz28zz

I thought abt doing this too. Seems like getting length of the pipe just right would be critical.

Black Baja

iTrader: (2)

If I was working with a foam transom this would be a must for mounting the transom assembly. Although I would use a heavier walled to get a larger footprint.

Black Baja

iTrader: (2)

You would want the tubing to be a little shorter than the transom. Then chamfer the transom holes to the tubing thickness. That way the tubing is locked in place.

BBCLiberator

iTrader: (2)

I use 3M 5200 like many here below the water line. Never had an issue. I'd rather have some extra work replacing components in the future than replacing my transom...

zz28zz

I know the 5200 will stick like crazy to clean gelcoat, but are there any issues with 5200 sticking to the epoxy? Will the epoxy need a couple of days to complete out-gassing (before applying sealant), or would overnight drying be fine?

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I really like this idea! After just having a new transom put in my cat, I think I will go this route when I go to install my jackplate.

What is the general consensus on HOW MUCH BIGGER to drill the holes, and then fill?
Let's assume for this example: 5/8" diameter bolts.

Also, would you sleeve/collar the holes to avoid transom squish?

horsepower1

I think I would make stainless sleeves for the holes, regardless of how you penetrate the transom. I like drilling an oversize hole and filling it but would still use a stainless sleeve.