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Replacing Impeller - Just the impeller or entire assembly?

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Old 04-28-2016, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Cole2534
If your mechanical fuel pump bolts to your block disregard, but if your mech pump bolts to your impeller housing then follow along-

Unhook the lines from the mech pump and then unbolt it from the impeller housing. In that cavity there is the impeller shaft and on it the cam lobe that actuates the fuel pump foot. This cavity should be filled with merc gear lube, but in some gases gasoline can leak from the mech pump and dilute the oil. This will ultimately result in failure of the fuel pump to do it's job properly. So whenever you pull your impeller you should pull off the fuel pump. pull out the old oil with a syringe or similar and refill with gear lube.

Attached is a pic of my fuel pump after I lost a seal and evacuated the gear oil to my bilge via the v-belts. Different cause, same end result. Please note wear on the pump's foot.
What do you recommend for "gear lube", same amsoil that goes in outdirives or other?
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Tractionless
What do you recommend for "gear lube", same amsoil that goes in outdirives or other?
I've been using standard Mercury High Performance Gear Lube (same stuff as in my drives), although I am switching my outdrives to use Torco RTF instead for this season.
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:18 AM
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If I have the whole assembly off , I rebuild the whole thing. Housing , impeller, seals , bearings , fuel pump gasket, even the wear collar the cam lobe rides in for the fuel pump. Too much of a pain to remove to not go thru it completely. Do it every other season.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
Do the dry run impellers really work? It seems like that with a SS housing would be nearly indestructible.

Most people have found that the run dry impellers do not pump as much/enough water as the old fashioned kind.
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Old 04-30-2016, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HyFive578
I've been using standard Mercury High Performance Gear Lube (same stuff as in my drives), although I am switching my outdrives to use Torco RTF instead for this season.
Originally Posted by flatlanderbill
If I have the whole assembly off , I rebuild the whole thing. Housing , impeller, seals , bearings , fuel pump gasket, even the wear collar the cam lobe rides in for the fuel pump. Too much of a pain to remove to not go thru it completely. Do it every other season.
I cracked the inspection screw on both of mine and immediately was met with a plume of fuel (smell). Can I take said screw out, suck out all the fluid with a hose on the end of a syringe and then refill with gear lube with a syringe while still on the motor?
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Old 04-30-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
Most people have found that the run dry impellers do not pump as much/enough water as the old fashioned kind.
Ah, thanks.

Originally Posted by Tractionless
I cracked the inspection screw on both of mine and immediately was met with a plume of fuel (smell). Can I take said screw out, suck out all the fluid with a hose on the end of a syringe and then refill with gear lube with a syringe while still on the motor?
That's pretty much how most of us do it anyways. I do it when I'm changing the engine oil and have the vacuum pump out anyways.


Am I the inly idiot to change out the sea pump, start the engine, shut it and the water off only to restart it a few minutes later without the water frying the brand new pump? Brilliant. :|
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by flatlanderbill
If I have the whole assembly off , I rebuild the whole thing. Housing , impeller, seals , bearings , fuel pump gasket, even the wear collar the cam lobe rides in for the fuel pump. Too much of a pain to remove to not go thru it completely. Do it every other season.
Bill what seals are changeable? Diaphragm that separates the fuel and lubricating oil? I had heavy fuel smell and much dilution in mine. I hear this can cause the shaft bearing to go out.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:54 AM
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Mercruiser years ago compared their impellers vs aftermarket impellers - Actually and I will agree they found that THEIR OEM impellers pumped the best compared to anyone else. Apples to apples testing. Globe blue implellers did not pump as much water volume as Merc OEM impellers.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Tractionless
Bill what seals are changeable? Diaphragm that separates the fuel and lubricating oil? I had heavy fuel smell and much dilution in mine. I hear this can cause the shaft bearing to go out.
Always some fuel in cavity - I change mine at the same time I change my engine oil, about every 20 hrs. Replace impeller and housing every season.
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tractionless
Bill what seals are changeable? Diaphragm that separates the fuel and lubricating oil? I had heavy fuel smell and much dilution in mine. I hear this can cause the shaft bearing to go out.
Yes , one seal keeps the water on the water pump side and the other keeps the gear lube on the fuel pump side. They are installed opposite each other, pay attention to the way they face when you press the cam / impellor shaft out. Bam has a good exploded view on their website if you don't have the factory service manual. Bam also sells the manuals, best $ you will ever spend on your boat!
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