thirdchildhood

iTrader: (6)

On my old 496 I would pull a couple of the lowest hoses off and let it drain. Never flushed it with antifreeze. I still do that with the 525. I also pull the plugs and squirt fogging oil in each cylinder, crank it a few times and reinstall plugs. Bring batteries indoors to extend their life. I never touch the fuel system but the boat stays uncovered and indoors. Before all that I'd also change the oil and drive lube and run it on the hose. In the spring reconnect the hoses and batteries and you're good to go.

plexoer

I am buying a boat next spring, so I am trying to educate my self so I'm not completely clueless next year.

One more question, how important is it to fog the motor over a 6 month dry dock. Mercury's procedure looks like a royal PITA, do you guys fog these motors? If so have you found an easier way than using a separate gas can?

Thanks

thirdchildhood

iTrader: (6)

I remove the spark plugs which is not difficult. I spray fogging oil directly into each cyld using the red tube on the spray can. Trip the lanyard cut-off and crank the engine over several times. Reinstall plugs. So much easier than the "right" way!

plexoer

I like the sounds of that a lot better. I have also heard of people filling the fuel / water separating filter up with half gas and half 2 stoke oil and running that though the engine. Anyone have any experience with this?

BUP

iTrader: (9)

You do not fog any MPI or EFI engines - WHY cause the MAP Sensor hates it and any other sensors that can come into contact with the spraying of fogging oil. Thats all you are doing is coating the sensors and coating the intake tracks / runners with fogging oil by spraying it..

you must not have read my post to clearly. - you want to add lubricity to the complete fuel system while its stored, this also fogs the engine internally. Search up here soup mix. Already talked all about that.

And for anyone who thinks spraying fogging oil will not jack somethng up in the MPI / EFI system , just unhook you map sensor and or the line to the MAP sensor, then spray ONLY 4 seconds of fogging oil into the line or spray into the port for the MAP sensor - hook the line back up or reinstall the MAP sensor and run your engine. Good luck on how it will run.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

It depends on what kind of Fuel/Water separator you have on how easy it is to fill it 50% with 2-stroke oil.
That is what I do, but I have the early model spin on fuel filters that resemble an oil filter, easy peasy.

The later model Cool Fuel systems with the canister and filter element fuel/water separator are pretty much a PITA to do this with.
Mixing up the cocktail in a separate can, and running your engine off of that is usually much easier.

thirdchildhood

iTrader: (6)

Just wondering but is my method of spraying the oil directly into the cylinders not sufficient? The only shortcoming I can see is that I'm not running any oil through the injectors.

plexoer

Ok, thanks!

BUP

iTrader: (9)

it is so simple that I can do it with my eyes closed. Simple and 100% EEEFECTIVE by far. And I will make this statement - since our area sucks for boating for the past 5 or 6 years. Lets see last year complete flooding very few used their boats but many did NOT, before that extreme drought most could not use their boats for years especially lake house boats that had NO water under their boat.. Min 2 years some even 4 years

So with that said all the boats I winterized that sat for 1 year or 2 years or even 4 years that could not be used. NOT one had a fuel related problem when commisioned, NOT ONE even with E 10 gas NOT ONE, The whole area around here is all E 10 gas anyways.

The only thing I had to do (the fuel side related) was - drain the fuel tank completely and fuel systems completely plus install new fuel filters but you have to install new fuel filters anyways at least once per year regardless.

The deal is - use a 3 gallon or 6 gallon outboard red gas tank remote version. fresh gas in the remote red gas tank - double the stabil mix and add 40 to 1 or 50 to 1 or 60 to 1 - 2 stroke oil mix of a VERY quality brand.

UNHOOK at the engine side the rubber fuel line that comes from the gas tank ( engine first fuel inlet barb). - you then hook your remote fuel tank up with its fuel line and primer bulb just like outboard marine engines use. shake it well to mix, then open vent on remote fuel tank - squeeze the primer bulb to prime fuel - run engine for 15 to 20 mins on that mix - to full operating engine temps or past. Shut down engine - unhook your remote tank - reinstall the boats fuel line. Then put double mix of stabil and 100 to one or 120 to 1 of 2 stroke motor oil in the boats fuel tank as well ( the boat side). When spring commision comes around either drain fuel completely or top off with fresh fuel depending on how long the storage term was.

EVEN lay up carb engines this way. Been doing this since 2001 for all marine engines. You now have added lubricity to your complete fuel system, carb or MPI and all fuel pumps plus injectors, all fuel lines and even fogged your engine internally and even pickled the boats fuel tank side as well.

Its that simple with alot LESS fuel related problems - I know and proven tested on my end for many years. So listen to guy who works on his boat only or listen to a guy who is OEM trained and cert plus has worked on 1000's of boats with all kinds of marine engines who still has his customer base from many many years ago. I try to perform the best procedures to offer trouble free turn key boating.

Sorry if I am sounding extreme here or even cocky so be it, but the advice is SOLID and FREE, your choice to use it or not at NO charge to the end user. This solution will not fix or experiencing fuel related problems or corrosion issues beforehand. END of story.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

OEM recommended anyways as well inwhich is proper procedures. But Merc uses too much oil especially for a 496. Volvo Penta has done a bunch of mixing ratio testing, they recommend 50 to 1 for all their engines during storage. Even storage now is considered 30 days or more.

Read the SB link below - Ok now end of story 4 sure

http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/d...foggingefi.pdf