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Jesel Belt Drive, Crank turns Cam and Belt Stationary

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Old 06-12-2016, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by GPM
Just curious, why would anyone use a belt drive in an indurance application like a boat.
Lots of programs running belt drives in endurance applications. Primarily to dampen/isolate crankshaft harmonics from the valvetrain.
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:25 PM
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I'd be more concerned why it stripped the teeth off. Have you pulled the plugs? Do a comp/leak down test? You said you took a wave up the back..any chance it stripped the belt due to a hydrolocked cylinder?
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by turbofox54
I'd be more concerned why it stripped the teeth off. Have you pulled the plugs? Do a comp/leak down test? You said you took a wave up the back..any chance it stripped the belt due to a hydrolocked cylinder?
Exactly what I was thinking
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
How old was the belt JR?
no idea, I do know it sat for 3 years. 2 years for sale.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:15 PM
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I'd be changing the other belt!! I hope you get by with no bent valves!
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by turbofox54
I'd be more concerned why it stripped the teeth off. Have you pulled the plugs? Do a comp/leak down test? You said you took a wave up the back..any chance it stripped the belt due to a hydrolocked cylinder?
It is a little tough to do a compression and leak down with the cam not turning. I did wonder about the hydrolock that is why i mentioned it, but motor did not hesitate to turn over and it (hydrolock) would stop a piston from going up but how would it stop a valve from opening?

BTW, I cut the belt off and it almost looks tore. So I have some definite concerns about my valve train. I was able to turn the cam but not easy...although I do no know how hard it is to turn one by hand. Looks like i have to pull the header to get the valve cover off, or atleast loosen it.

Last edited by JRider; 06-12-2016 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:30 PM
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If there is enough resistance anywhere in the valve train then the weakest link will give which would be the belt. I'd pull the valve covers and loosen the rockers to shut all the valves and put air in the spark plug hole on each before I went through and retimed it with a new belt. You will hear a hurt valve either through the intake or exhaust.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:46 PM
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That is exactly what I started to do. Going to do the port side first as it is easy, the other side is in the gunnel and a beoitch.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:49 PM
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Cool...good luck!! Hopefully you get a good test and a new belt fixes the whole situation.
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JRider
It is a little tough to do a compression and leak down with the cam not turning. I did wonder about the hydrolock that is why i mentioned it, but motor did not hesitate to turn over and it (hydrolock) would stop a piston from going up but how would it stop a valve from opening?

BTW, I cut the belt off and it almost looks tore. So I have some definite concerns about my valve train. I was able to turn the cam but not easy...although I do no know how hard it is to turn one by hand. Looks like i have to pull the header to get the valve cover off, or atleast loosen it.
If a piston can't push it how can a valve ? Unless already open but there wouldn't be hydrolock if it was open. A spark plug can be removed. :wink: lol
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