Reoccurung water pump failures...
08-23-2016, 12:43 PM
#22
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Surely it would be supplied with a new hose.
Last edited by nsformula; 08-23-2016 at 12:45 PM.
08-23-2016, 12:54 PM
#24
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True, but relying on the SWP to draw water up from your drive when using the muffs is always a gamble. I think that this will likely decrease the wear on your impellers over time, and also help with your longevity issues. Also, this "Tee" being installed in that hose from the transom to the SWP will virtually guarantee that it cannot ever completely collapse.
08-23-2016, 01:01 PM
#25
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08-23-2016, 01:17 PM
#26
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True, but relying on the SWP to draw water up from your drive when using the muffs is always a gamble. I think that this will likely decrease the wear on your impellers over time, and also help with your longevity issues. Also, this "Tee" being installed in that hose from the transom to the SWP will virtually guarantee that it cannot ever completely collapse.
After going thru this is even before changing the drive and double checking everything numerous times, and evaluating every ones advice, I think an airlock is the likely core of the problem.
That may explain why I have no water pick up on the hose or in the water.
I think I will get a new inlet hose, and put a tee in it as shown.
08-23-2016, 02:43 PM
#27
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The impellers are trashed when I pull it apart, most if not all the vanes broken.
I could be wrong but I think if there was a blockage on the outlet hose or cooler, I would have the temps go up and maybe only a little of bit water out of the exhaust tips, but you would not expect to see complete blockage and no water out the tips.
I have pulled both hoses off and checked for debris and checked the inlet on the cooler as well.
And, as soon as I change the impeller, as is well.
I could be wrong but I think if there was a blockage on the outlet hose or cooler, I would have the temps go up and maybe only a little of bit water out of the exhaust tips, but you would not expect to see complete blockage and no water out the tips.
I have pulled both hoses off and checked for debris and checked the inlet on the cooler as well.
And, as soon as I change the impeller, as is well.
08-23-2016, 02:53 PM
#28
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08-23-2016, 07:03 PM
#29
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I checked the hose from drive to transom, no kinks or twists,
checked the belt tension, ok.
checked the hose from transom to pump housing, no leaks and the hose has wire braid and is solid as a rock.
Started up on the hose with the muffs good and tight and instant water out the exhaust.
Did the same on Saturday, no water out of the exhaust...
The only thing that makes sense is some kind of air lock in the hose from the transom to the pump.
An airlock could occur or not occur depending on how the system drained while sitting on the trailer parked or towing to a launch.
I can't imagine a scenario where any of the hoses are collapsed sometimes and not other times, or there is an obstruction in the system that comes and goes.
It ran flawlessly all weekend.
The fact that it can burn up an impellor in the water gives credit to the air lock theory imho
I don't know why mine would air lock and others don't.
So how fix it,
the tee in the inlet hose should work, if it was open to the atmosphere before flushing or starting in the water, it should vent.
Or, maybe put a vent petcock on the t/stat housing or somewhere high on the coolant system.
Make sense????
Last edited by nsformula; 08-23-2016 at 07:06 PM.
08-23-2016, 07:11 PM
#30
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iTrader: (3)
My father fought a collapsing line on his crown line this year. The one in your transom assembly. Pumped water fine on hose and at idle but would close enough at 3000 and up to starve the pump and melt the impeller. We pulled our hair out trying to find the cause. If everything else checks out, replace it and see if it helps. His looked fun but apparently wasn't.
