getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

What oil you run? I'm very content running 180/190-220 for 30 plus years now. No premature wear or problems with parts etc. 140 water temps all day. My senders are now in my drain plugs.

jeff32

Same here without problem!

SB

iTrader: (1)

If it's thicker than the other block, it could be transferring less oil temp to the coolant. A block is an oil cooler too.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

yep,thats it.you can,t think a block could cause a 50 degree difference in oil temp.

SB

iTrader: (1)

OOOps. Doh ! I was just speaking directly on what I quoted you .

I agree with you, a 50*F difference I would doubt.nothing is different than just the block. Tighter clearances can increase it some. Tuning can change it some, Etc, etc.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

that is why i asked for info on the build.my 1200s will go to 200 deg on a hard run,normally 185-190.i run 15 plate oil coolers.

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

Tune plays a huge role also, My builds on year one I would see 200-220, with a much safer tune I saw no more then 150....with absolutely no other changes....now that being said I prefer 190-220 temps, more heat = Power....

minxguy

Way too cold for oil, You probably increase you oil level in your sump because you dont burn off the water from condensation.

180 is probably the coolest oil should get 210 is what it is tested at for viscosity.

Keep it under 300.

Ken

Black Baja

iTrader: (2)

What happens to the friction modifiers in the oil the more heat you put to it? I can tell you this. I have over 60 hours on the oil in the motor and the oil still looks like new. The motor didn't use a drop of oil in that time nor did it make any oil. There is zero condensation in the oil. The coolant temp on the motor runs between 170-180 depending on how it's ran. I did run a full tank of gas through the motor at one point at nothing below WOT about 3 weeks ago. The 140-150 is after the cooler. I would suspect from my hands on knowledge that the cooler is pulling about 30 degrees of temp out of it. I pulled the motor this week and did a complete tear down on it (winter upgrades) and can say this. It doesn't look like the motor had been run at all. I beat the piss out of it. Honestly the last 3-4 times out I really had no concern for the motors or drives and could have cared less if they blew up. Believe me I understand where things are "suppose" to run temperature wise but it just hasn't been my experience. I'm going to get a sample of the oil tested. I would be highly shocked if there is any negative results and I would bet it still has life left in it.

Black Baja

iTrader: (2)

My theory is this. Heat kills parts. So why if we are using oil to cool the parts inside the motor would you use hot oil to do? If the valve springs make 75% of the heat in the motor and heat kills the spring don't you want to try to keep them cool? It's no mystery 170 is the optimum number for making power. And this is due to fuel vaporizing on the cylinder walls. So how do you maximize the power potential but make the parts in the motor last? I would think get the temperature up in the block but keep the oil on the cool side to keep the parts inside cooled down would be the answer. Right or wrong that's what I'm trying to see what happens. If it's wrong I'll go the other direction with things. So far what I've seen its the right way to go about it.