Impeller and hose trouble with Hardin pump
01-03-2017, 07:54 AM
#1
Impeller and hose trouble with Hardin pump
Temps up to 54 so decided to turn my self into a pretzel and replace the water pump housing with the Hardin SS along with the impeller. The impeller has been installed for two seasons (spring 2014 to 1-1-2017). The impeller has a heavy set to the blades. Was wanting to find out if I could chance with 3 years but this tells me to stay with the every other year. The impeller manufacture date was less then a year old when installed.
I'm very slightly concerned with the Hardin Marine pump design. It uses a SS plate which is laid against the rear before the impeller goes in. Just as the one in the front its a wear plate and that part is ok. The part which causes me to think, is the rear plate covers part of the inlet and outlet ports. The water is only allowed to go in/out thru the slots in the sides. Also noticed the center side slots are not perfectly round, has a slight hump
Since I to have to hang upside down the Hardin pump will also cause another unseen issue. The pump is heavier so getting it in place will take more mussel. I also found that my old suction hose is having a hard time getting all the way on. The pumps fittings have a thin edge and grabs to ridge in the hose. Tried for sometime to get the hose on and I could not get the hose all the way flush.
I currently have the starboard exhaust manifold off due to replacing the starter. With the manifold off I'm able to squeeze in beside the motor so I can grab hold of the hose better. I was able to push harder then if hanging up side down. Decided to take the other end of the hose off the transom assembly and ordered a new piece of hose.
If you look at the Hardin and the Merc composite pump the edges are different. The Mec is a smooth tapper up to the edge, the Hardin is blunt with another ridge. Since my hose is over 20 years old I hope replacing it will eliminate the issue for some time. If it comes back I may have to go back to the Merc pump.
Has anyone had any trouble getting the suction hose completely on the fitting? Maybe a trick to make it easier
I'm very slightly concerned with the Hardin Marine pump design. It uses a SS plate which is laid against the rear before the impeller goes in. Just as the one in the front its a wear plate and that part is ok. The part which causes me to think, is the rear plate covers part of the inlet and outlet ports. The water is only allowed to go in/out thru the slots in the sides. Also noticed the center side slots are not perfectly round, has a slight hump
Since I to have to hang upside down the Hardin pump will also cause another unseen issue. The pump is heavier so getting it in place will take more mussel. I also found that my old suction hose is having a hard time getting all the way on. The pumps fittings have a thin edge and grabs to ridge in the hose. Tried for sometime to get the hose on and I could not get the hose all the way flush.
I currently have the starboard exhaust manifold off due to replacing the starter. With the manifold off I'm able to squeeze in beside the motor so I can grab hold of the hose better. I was able to push harder then if hanging up side down. Decided to take the other end of the hose off the transom assembly and ordered a new piece of hose.
If you look at the Hardin and the Merc composite pump the edges are different. The Mec is a smooth tapper up to the edge, the Hardin is blunt with another ridge. Since my hose is over 20 years old I hope replacing it will eliminate the issue for some time. If it comes back I may have to go back to the Merc pump.
Has anyone had any trouble getting the suction hose completely on the fitting? Maybe a trick to make it easier
01-03-2017, 08:10 AM
#2
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Murrayville Georgia
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
Received 893 Likes
on
320 Posts
cant help with the hose but the impeller has a annual replacement recommendation not due to wear but sitting. when they sit they take a set like yours. work boats that run year round and rarely sit more than a few days have gone years on the same impeller with no problems. in the case of boats like my flat bottom v-drive most guys pull the impeller at the end of the day because they are easy to reach. they last for years that way. as for the hose you could pull the fittings out and put them in a lathe and cut a slight bevel on the end and the one side of the lip. that might help the hose start.
01-03-2017, 08:22 AM
#4
Have to agree with your assessment and the impeller taking a set due to sitting. Changing it ever other is bad enough, every year would be less then sticking a needle in my eye (had that done once, ouch) but don't want to unless I start seeing heat building up. The edge of the fitting is only about 1/8 inch thick, thinking if it was cut down more it comes closer to a knife edge. Maybe soap is the answer
01-03-2017, 08:25 AM
#6
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Right or wrong, we always grease the inside of the wire reinforced water PU hose. This makes the install much easier, but it is still a wrestling match getting it off. One year, we gave up and cut the hose to pull the engine.
01-03-2017, 09:20 AM
#8
VIP Member
I wouldn't use WD40 on a rubber hose.
Oil breaks down rubber, especially if it gets trapped in there.
I've always used aerosol spray Silicone.
If it's a real PITA to get a hose on, you can use a heat gun to soften the end, but this is a fine art to due so without damaging anything.
I never went more than two seasons on an impeller.
Some folks like to bump over their engines during winter storage to...
1) make sure the starter shaft doesn't corrode up
2) relieve/readjust valve train spring pressures
3) another benefit would be to relieve the set on the SWP impeller (but if you have access to the pulley, you might be able to spin the water pump by itself pending belt tension, which some folks like to loosen up for winter as well).
Oil breaks down rubber, especially if it gets trapped in there.
I've always used aerosol spray Silicone.
If it's a real PITA to get a hose on, you can use a heat gun to soften the end, but this is a fine art to due so without damaging anything.
I never went more than two seasons on an impeller.
Some folks like to bump over their engines during winter storage to...
1) make sure the starter shaft doesn't corrode up
2) relieve/readjust valve train spring pressures
3) another benefit would be to relieve the set on the SWP impeller (but if you have access to the pulley, you might be able to spin the water pump by itself pending belt tension, which some folks like to loosen up for winter as well).
01-03-2017, 09:27 AM
#9
Registered
iTrader: (3)
I wouldn't use WD40 on a rubber hose.
Oil breaks down rubber, especially if it gets trapped in there.
I've always used aerosol spray Silicone.
If it's a real PITA to get a hose on, you can use a heat gun to soften the end, but this is a fine art to due so without damaging anything.
I never went more than two seasons on an impeller.
Some folks like to bump over their engines during winter storage to...
1) make sure the starter shaft doesn't corrode up
2) relieve/readjust valve train spring pressures
3) another benefit would be to relieve the set on the SWP impeller (but if you have access to the pulley, you might be able to spin the water pump by itself pending belt tension, which some folks like to loosen up for winter as well).
Oil breaks down rubber, especially if it gets trapped in there.
I've always used aerosol spray Silicone.
If it's a real PITA to get a hose on, you can use a heat gun to soften the end, but this is a fine art to due so without damaging anything.
I never went more than two seasons on an impeller.
Some folks like to bump over their engines during winter storage to...
1) make sure the starter shaft doesn't corrode up
2) relieve/readjust valve train spring pressures
3) another benefit would be to relieve the set on the SWP impeller (but if you have access to the pulley, you might be able to spin the water pump by itself pending belt tension, which some folks like to loosen up for winter as well).
