Procharger Set Up
10-08-2002, 12:26 PM
#1
Procharger Set Up
I have just finshed installation of a M-3 Procharger system(5lbs.) on my 1997 250 Eliminator Eagle and am not fortunate enough to have a good source for information. I have run the boat several times but only to 4000 r.p.m. as I want to be sure that the fuel system is set up correctly. I have heard some controversy about the fuel set up. 3 Questions.
1. How many are running the PC set up
without problems?(i.e. 3/8" fuel line tank
to water seperator to pump. Aeromotive
rec. 1/2" My tank has only a 3/8" fitting
with some kind of plastic tube going to the
bottom of the tank. At the bottom of the
tube there is something attached as I can't
pull it all the way out. How could I modify
this to 1/2"? Do I need to?
2. Should I retard the timing or leave it 32.
3. Any other helpful hints?
1. How many are running the PC set up
without problems?(i.e. 3/8" fuel line tank
to water seperator to pump. Aeromotive
rec. 1/2" My tank has only a 3/8" fitting
with some kind of plastic tube going to the
bottom of the tank. At the bottom of the
tube there is something attached as I can't
pull it all the way out. How could I modify
this to 1/2"? Do I need to?
2. Should I retard the timing or leave it 32.
3. Any other helpful hints?
10-08-2002, 12:37 PM
#2
Registered
Project sounds great! Im doing the same thing on a 95' 250 eagle 502 carb motor. I'm running 29 deg. of timing. I'm going to try 32 degrees with race gas later. I ran 3/8 " id on the last boat but I havent set up the eliminator yet fuel system yet. Which motor are you running? How much boost in the intake manifold are you running? Do you have std drive height? I'm expecting 95-97 mph on mine. Tell me more! Greg
10-08-2002, 08:32 PM
#3
HP Junkie,
I should have mentioned that the motor is a 502 mag. E.F.I, I am going to use the standard drive height, 30 pitch bravo 1, I am going to use 5 lbs. boost. so far initial runs have gone great, at 3750 I run 70 m.p.h on 2 different gaffrigs. The next couple of weekends I plan to try W.O.T. and check the plugs for proper combustion. The 30p hooks up perfect and feels great. Did you have any problems with the 3/8" fuel line?
I should have mentioned that the motor is a 502 mag. E.F.I, I am going to use the standard drive height, 30 pitch bravo 1, I am going to use 5 lbs. boost. so far initial runs have gone great, at 3750 I run 70 m.p.h on 2 different gaffrigs. The next couple of weekends I plan to try W.O.T. and check the plugs for proper combustion. The 30p hooks up perfect and feels great. Did you have any problems with the 3/8" fuel line?
10-08-2002, 09:29 PM
#4
1975 X-18 Donzi, Arneson
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I run an M3 on my MPI Small Block 434ci. My engine dyno'd 738hp. She ran fine with 3/8" pick up in tank and water seperator before the Aeromotive fuel pump. I run 60psi.
However; Aeromotive says you need to run -10 fuel line (1/2") or larger, the fuel pick up in tank needs to be 1/2" or larger and do not use water seperator before the pump. If any or all of these items are not followed the pump my fail premature. The pump can not have any type of restriction from the tank to the pump only a 100 micron filter which they make.
My pump started to make more noise then normal half way through the season. So I install 1/2" fuel pick up, changed to all -10 (1/2") fuel lines and moved the water seperator to the return line. I removed my fuel sending unit and bolted in a plate with a 1/2" fuel pick up for the rest of the season. This winter I will flush out the fuel tank and install another sending unit.
Your engine should run fine at 32 degrees. Just make sure the engine temp never gets hot and that you have good fuel!!
However; Aeromotive says you need to run -10 fuel line (1/2") or larger, the fuel pick up in tank needs to be 1/2" or larger and do not use water seperator before the pump. If any or all of these items are not followed the pump my fail premature. The pump can not have any type of restriction from the tank to the pump only a 100 micron filter which they make.
My pump started to make more noise then normal half way through the season. So I install 1/2" fuel pick up, changed to all -10 (1/2") fuel lines and moved the water seperator to the return line. I removed my fuel sending unit and bolted in a plate with a 1/2" fuel pick up for the rest of the season. This winter I will flush out the fuel tank and install another sending unit.
Your engine should run fine at 32 degrees. Just make sure the engine temp never gets hot and that you have good fuel!!
10-09-2002, 12:59 PM
#7
Registered
ome more Procharger guys on board!!!I highly recommend you review the thread "it's for certain...meltdown" and review all the Aeromotive info. Pay particular attention to the fuel returns and where you run them. Be absolutely sure the regulator is mounted on TOP the engine or it will die!! Work to keep the fuel as cool as possible if you return it the the pump inlet to prevent pump cavitation. That is what the 1/2" lines are all about, preventing cavitation due to low inlet flow heating the fuel and injecting air thru the pump & too the injectors.
Also, do not necessarily believe anything you are told by the P.C. techs. They pass out so much bad/inaccurate info that it's not funny.
Timing- stock timing is ok @ 5# boost.....been doing it for a long time. Be sure to check it in BASE TIMING MODE on a scan tool.
Scan Tools- available on the net or ebay at around $300.00 (same as Merc's Scan Tool & by the same manufacturer.
Fuel pressure - start at a minimum of 37# pressure for EFI.
Again, call Aeromotive even for P.C. related fuel problems, they understand the situation!!
Best of luck to you guys!!
10-09-2002, 08:05 PM
#8
Thanks for all the information guys, brings one question to mind. If I did have too much restriction with the fuel lines would I see a drop in fuel pressure or maybe hear predetonation before "meltdown?" I have mounted gaffrig fuel pressure guage on the dash. By the way I have now an aeromotive fuel filter for install after the pump and a high volume fuel/water seperator from eddie marine that has 1/2" fittings. I am going to return the fuel to the tank by using a galvanized pipe with a fitting installed into the fuel fill hose.
Does anyone have specific ideas on how to add 1/2" fuel fitting to my plastic tank? Should I just try the 3/8" fitting expanded to 1/2" tubing right out of the tank? I am not going to be making 700+ horsepower as was just mentioned.
Does anyone have specific ideas on how to add 1/2" fuel fitting to my plastic tank? Should I just try the 3/8" fitting expanded to 1/2" tubing right out of the tank? I am not going to be making 700+ horsepower as was just mentioned.
10-09-2002, 08:50 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hey, look like a great project coming home...
I am running an M-1 with a 454 carb set-up. I started like yourself with the 3/8" lines through the stock filter. The pump was routed through a fuel cooler than back through the pump originally. 1 season later, I cavitated the magnets loose - no more pump. The second round, I took their advice - re-routed all the lines to 1/2", but have not pulled the tanks to replace the 3/8" feed. Maybe for the winter project. My thought was to tee both lines into 1 - 1/2" line directed to the pump. This worked for this season, so far....
Math says that 2 - 3/8" = 6/8" or almost 3/4" of fuel. Problem was that you can't find a cheap 1/2" tank switch..... So, the tanks drain differently causing an inbalance between tanks. The only fix was to pull the tank to have a new fitting welding into the tanks.
More problems....
Hope this helps....
I am running an M-1 with a 454 carb set-up. I started like yourself with the 3/8" lines through the stock filter. The pump was routed through a fuel cooler than back through the pump originally. 1 season later, I cavitated the magnets loose - no more pump. The second round, I took their advice - re-routed all the lines to 1/2", but have not pulled the tanks to replace the 3/8" feed. Maybe for the winter project. My thought was to tee both lines into 1 - 1/2" line directed to the pump. This worked for this season, so far....
Math says that 2 - 3/8" = 6/8" or almost 3/4" of fuel. Problem was that you can't find a cheap 1/2" tank switch..... So, the tanks drain differently causing an inbalance between tanks. The only fix was to pull the tank to have a new fitting welding into the tanks.
More problems....
Hope this helps....
10-10-2002, 09:14 AM
#10
Another thing to remember is to remove the anti-siphon valve from the tank pickup on top. This is not a Coast Guard approved procedure but it is necessary to improve flow.
I too have thought of just joining the two 3/8 lines, one from each tank, but I would lose the "tank switch" control. I don't know quite how they would equally feed either. Maybe someone make an equalizing manifold block????
The two 3/8 lines would be the equivalent to appx a 9/16 fuel line (the two 3/8 lines having a cross sectional area of .22 in^2 vs. .196 in^2 for the single 1/2) Not nearly 3/4 but still should be more than sufficient.
After some in depth conversation with a major fuel tank manufacture, it seems the 3/8 should easily support the hp requirements I'm looking for (750) especially when I'm returning cold unused fuel to the large reservoir and not the tank. They did mention no 90's or any other obstructions, use 1/2 from the reservoir/separator to high pressure pump and from pump to fuel rail and make sure that my high volume mechanical feed pump is sufficient to keep up.
Adding 1/2" pickups to my tanks would be a major undertaking so I will be using these alternative methods for sure.
Watch the gauge
Dave
I too have thought of just joining the two 3/8 lines, one from each tank, but I would lose the "tank switch" control. I don't know quite how they would equally feed either. Maybe someone make an equalizing manifold block????
The two 3/8 lines would be the equivalent to appx a 9/16 fuel line (the two 3/8 lines having a cross sectional area of .22 in^2 vs. .196 in^2 for the single 1/2) Not nearly 3/4 but still should be more than sufficient.
After some in depth conversation with a major fuel tank manufacture, it seems the 3/8 should easily support the hp requirements I'm looking for (750) especially when I'm returning cold unused fuel to the large reservoir and not the tank. They did mention no 90's or any other obstructions, use 1/2 from the reservoir/separator to high pressure pump and from pump to fuel rail and make sure that my high volume mechanical feed pump is sufficient to keep up.
Adding 1/2" pickups to my tanks would be a major undertaking so I will be using these alternative methods for sure.
Watch the gauge
Dave
