Milkshake on rebuilt engine
#11
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I'm bringing that up for several reasons:
1) So everyone knows
2) Who ever is at fault, the engine builder, the parts manufacturers, or you...should own up to it. You will not know till it comes apart and things looked at.
3) I mistakenly forgot I put a tstat in a crossover system without a bypass (your bypass was limited) by the time I brought the engine to a dyno. A few break in runs later the engine was milkshaked. Put a ater psigauge on it for a quick stab of the throttle on the syno and water psi pegged a 60psi gauge. Water pushed passed the gaskets and thus the milkshake. Fuk !
You drained water but did you run antifreeze thru it in case shop lost heat for a night or day or etc so it wouldn't freeze ?
Coolant hose kinked.....exhaust could have heated too much and cracked.....letting water into engine. Or engine or heads got hot and squeezed a headgasket ?
Again, no guessing will help. Wait till it comes apart and be honest with the builder.
1) So everyone knows
2) Who ever is at fault, the engine builder, the parts manufacturers, or you...should own up to it. You will not know till it comes apart and things looked at.
3) I mistakenly forgot I put a tstat in a crossover system without a bypass (your bypass was limited) by the time I brought the engine to a dyno. A few break in runs later the engine was milkshaked. Put a ater psigauge on it for a quick stab of the throttle on the syno and water psi pegged a 60psi gauge. Water pushed passed the gaskets and thus the milkshake. Fuk !
You drained water but did you run antifreeze thru it in case shop lost heat for a night or day or etc so it wouldn't freeze ?
Coolant hose kinked.....exhaust could have heated too much and cracked.....letting water into engine. Or engine or heads got hot and squeezed a headgasket ?
Again, no guessing will help. Wait till it comes apart and be honest with the builder.
#12
Registered
iTrader: (3)
I'm bringing that up for several reasons:
1) So everyone knows
2) Who ever is at fault, the engine builder, the parts manufacturers, or you...should own up to it. You will not know till it comes apart and things looked at.
3) I mistakenly forgot I put a tstat in a crossover system without a bypass (your bypass was limited) by the time I brought the engine to a dyno. A few break in runs later the engine was milkshaked. Put a ater psigauge on it for a quick stab of the throttle on the syno and water psi pegged a 60psi gauge. Water pushed passed the gaskets and thus the milkshake. Fuk !
You drained water but did you run antifreeze thru it in case shop lost heat for a night or day or etc so it wouldn't freeze ?
Coolant hose kinked.....exhaust could have heated too much and cracked.....letting water into engine. Or engine or heads got hot and squeezed a headgasket ?
Again, no guessing will help. Wait till it comes apart and be honest with the builder.
1) So everyone knows
2) Who ever is at fault, the engine builder, the parts manufacturers, or you...should own up to it. You will not know till it comes apart and things looked at.
3) I mistakenly forgot I put a tstat in a crossover system without a bypass (your bypass was limited) by the time I brought the engine to a dyno. A few break in runs later the engine was milkshaked. Put a ater psigauge on it for a quick stab of the throttle on the syno and water psi pegged a 60psi gauge. Water pushed passed the gaskets and thus the milkshake. Fuk !
You drained water but did you run antifreeze thru it in case shop lost heat for a night or day or etc so it wouldn't freeze ?
Coolant hose kinked.....exhaust could have heated too much and cracked.....letting water into engine. Or engine or heads got hot and squeezed a headgasket ?
Again, no guessing will help. Wait till it comes apart and be honest with the builder.
#13
Registered
You can pressure test this engine in place. Plug the raw water in hose and 1 exit to exhausts. Put pressure Guage and tubeless tire valve stem into other exhaust exit. It'll probly take a couple trys to get hoses sealed. Put 30 lbs pressure into water passages. Crossover? Good. No worries about blowing out water pump seal. How long does pressure hold? I would still do intake and elim oil cooler first and see if you get lucky. That twisted up water in hose makes possibility of oil cooler mistreatment that much higher. Let's not rip engine out and run to builder with it til we have eliminated the easy stuff...
#15
Registered
Thread Starter
Thanks. The manifolds were suspect last year but i would guess they are fine. If they were allowing that much water in i would imagine it would have hydro locked by now?
I guess i can have em tested but i am pretty sure the manifolds are not my issue. The pieces inside appear to be old fittings the best i can tell. No clue how they got there.
I guess i can have em tested but i am pretty sure the manifolds are not my issue. The pieces inside appear to be old fittings the best i can tell. No clue how they got there.
#16
Registered
Thread Starter
A d for the record i will fully own my chit if this is something i did. My builder is a good guy and will stand behind it if its something he did. If its something i did i will take the lumps. Its not my style to screw someone over
thermostat is the only thing i have messed with. I did trying running last weekend without one to see if i could get it alittle cooler. (Oil got to 225, water to 180 first time out). Without the tstat it didnt warm up at all. Drilled a couple small holes in the thermostat and put it back in. I checked the oil after last weekend and it was fine.
Could that have caused this? ive never seen more then 15# of water psi at WOT.
also cracking do to cold weather is not a possibility. 1 my shop is heated/cooled year round. Im out there everyday. 2. Boat has been used twice before yesterday. 1st time this year i noticed an oil leak and discovered the filter adapter cracked, which i replaced (plugged the bypass).
I did remove 1 oil line from the oil cooler so that is possibilty that i someone distrubed something but i know the lines are routed correctly and are sealed.
I started this thread not to place blame but more merely to figure out what could have happened. This isnt my first rodeo with milkshakes. My last velocity had to much water psi and pused an intake gasket, but it never projectile vomited milkshake all over the bilge either.
Frustrating to say the least. Last summer sucked for boating and this summer isnt starting out real good.
thermostat is the only thing i have messed with. I did trying running last weekend without one to see if i could get it alittle cooler. (Oil got to 225, water to 180 first time out). Without the tstat it didnt warm up at all. Drilled a couple small holes in the thermostat and put it back in. I checked the oil after last weekend and it was fine.
Could that have caused this? ive never seen more then 15# of water psi at WOT.
also cracking do to cold weather is not a possibility. 1 my shop is heated/cooled year round. Im out there everyday. 2. Boat has been used twice before yesterday. 1st time this year i noticed an oil leak and discovered the filter adapter cracked, which i replaced (plugged the bypass).
I did remove 1 oil line from the oil cooler so that is possibilty that i someone distrubed something but i know the lines are routed correctly and are sealed.
I started this thread not to place blame but more merely to figure out what could have happened. This isnt my first rodeo with milkshakes. My last velocity had to much water psi and pused an intake gasket, but it never projectile vomited milkshake all over the bilge either.
Frustrating to say the least. Last summer sucked for boating and this summer isnt starting out real good.
Last edited by cabin fever; 06-01-2017 at 08:09 AM.
#17
Registered
So something failed. It could be oil cooler that got tweaked. But it is copper. Won't be corrosion. And tweakin a connector nipple is reaching for the moon. But taking the 2 oil lines off and connecting them together absolutely eliminates the oil cooler. Then pull the intake, carefully. This is not gasket replacement. This is an autopsy. You want to see if there is any evidence of water coming from any of the 4 corners of the head. And look over the bottom of the intake water passage. Just cuz it is a fairly new intake doesn't mean there wasn't a thin spot in the casting that coulda let go. We want pics of the intake gaskets still in place immediately after pulling manifolds.
#18
Registered
Just did a bit of rereading. Pumping out fuel pump vent tube. I assume this is a block mounted fuel pump? Not the raw pump mounted fuel pump, which isn't connected to crankcase at all?
#20
Registered
Thread Starter
Im hoping its just an intake since its running so good.
The fuel pump is mounted to the block, not the raw water pump. Im gonna clean the mess up sunday when we get home then take the boat to my guy for him to see/hear. I just want him to give me his opinnon.
The fuel pump is mounted to the block, not the raw water pump. Im gonna clean the mess up sunday when we get home then take the boat to my guy for him to see/hear. I just want him to give me his opinnon.