Circulating pumps
08-11-2017, 07:32 AM
#11
Registered
Probably a dumb question but how long did you let the motor run watching for water?
If it was a short time maybe it didn't have time to show up. Otherwise I don't see how water from a hose could make it past the water pump housing and a new impeller....... unless the hoses were connected reversed and it burned up the new impeller and then the water started being pushed thru
If it was a short time maybe it didn't have time to show up. Otherwise I don't see how water from a hose could make it past the water pump housing and a new impeller....... unless the hoses were connected reversed and it burned up the new impeller and then the water started being pushed thru
Please don't tell me I have another project.......
08-11-2017, 08:20 AM
#12
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Well, that's new and important information.
Does your Perko set up have one way valves in them ?
Does your Perko set up have one way valves in them ?
Last edited by SB; 08-11-2017 at 08:27 AM.
08-11-2017, 08:30 AM
#13
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Water coming out without the motor running concerns me. While you might get a little leakage there shouldn't be that much.
The circulation pump may be an issue if water was flowing out and it was overheating, your not getting any water so don't see how the circulation pump would be in the equation right now. Just change to the stainless pump my self this season and it is working but I'm not so sure it is doing as well as the composite.
The circulation pump may be an issue if water was flowing out and it was overheating, your not getting any water so don't see how the circulation pump would be in the equation right now. Just change to the stainless pump my self this season and it is working but I'm not so sure it is doing as well as the composite.
08-11-2017, 10:01 AM
#15
Banned
iTrader: (9)
on Bravo impeller apps if the back side hoses are wrong for the impeller housing. the impeller will burn up around the 2 min mark and you can actually smell the rubber burning at the pump. that's on the water hose as well because it can not prime itself with water especially that far of run ie: drive water inlets all the way to the impeller pump
If the system is fully primed with water then the water will not move out of the pump. But if one changes impeller and black plastic housing the system is not primed after the new install unless one forces water self primes just before start up.
If the system is fully primed with water then the water will not move out of the pump. But if one changes impeller and black plastic housing the system is not primed after the new install unless one forces water self primes just before start up.
Last edited by BUP; 08-11-2017 at 10:12 AM.
08-11-2017, 12:01 PM
#16
Registered
clear water hose method testing - you look for air bubbles and or less volumes of water passing thru the clear hose(s).. This form of testing pin points your problem area(s) and or cooling part(s) issues.
engine overheat is also signs of bad or going bad water circ pumps. But of course there is many other things for overheat / higher temps on top of.
ALSO --- This is how you test Water circ pumps with clear hoses in place of the OEM water hoses
Other forms of water circ pump testing is take of your belt off and spin the water circ pulley in in both directions - it should spin very freely and easy without noises especially bearing noises.
also other testing is to look very closely at the bottom weep hole - look for rust stains and or white water mineral stains out and down from the weep hole. Also when running the motor looks fro water leaks from the weep hole. Also temp swings are associated with a bad or water circ pump going out. Everything here is how one knows that water circ is bad or going bad. The water circ pump seems to be widely missed. IMO of it is over 10 years old I would change them out anyways or for new rebuilds. Totally would not reinstall a used WCP on a new or new rebuild engine.
If you need one I have them made in the USA for MOST MARINE apps including LS and LSA GM MARINE engines and even Ford marine apps.
engine overheat is also signs of bad or going bad water circ pumps. But of course there is many other things for overheat / higher temps on top of.
ALSO --- This is how you test Water circ pumps with clear hoses in place of the OEM water hoses
Other forms of water circ pump testing is take of your belt off and spin the water circ pulley in in both directions - it should spin very freely and easy without noises especially bearing noises.
also other testing is to look very closely at the bottom weep hole - look for rust stains and or white water mineral stains out and down from the weep hole. Also when running the motor looks fro water leaks from the weep hole. Also temp swings are associated with a bad or water circ pump going out. Everything here is how one knows that water circ is bad or going bad. The water circ pump seems to be widely missed. IMO of it is over 10 years old I would change them out anyways or for new rebuilds. Totally would not reinstall a used WCP on a new or new rebuild engine.
If you need one I have them made in the USA for MOST MARINE apps including LS and LSA GM MARINE engines and even Ford marine apps.
08-15-2017, 07:50 PM
#20
Registered
I guess a place to start is take hose off IN of raw pump and fire up hose hooked to perko unit. Then, once that side found ok, put hose back on raw pump and take off hose at IN of thermo housing. You should not get much out there with engine not spinning pump. Get lots when you fire up engine. Circ pumps go bad, but both at same time? Pretty much has to be something that was just done...
Last edited by dereknkathy; 08-15-2017 at 07:52 PM.
