liquidlounge

iTrader: (1)

What Wally says - so easy. Take a really straight on picture of the dash and sit down with someone that has Adobe Illustrator and you can lay it out in dozens of configurations in a short period of time. I am pretty sure that the illustrator software will convert it to a dxf file. I did some aluminum dash panels years ago and covered them in some 3m wrap and they still have a very high quality OEM look - better than the originals really.

Rookie

iTrader: (4)

To be honest I have only had them for 2 years. I have been using one in my old dash. (this is the new dash that I'm swapping out over the winter) I have had no real issues except under certain conditions I get a little fog in it. And it's +2 mph at 75mph. They have been worth the $50

Brad Christy

Liquid,

Neil Wallace has convinced me to move forward with aluminum. My plan as of right now is to remove the dash and have a local sheet metal shop scan and cut the outside shape. I will then use their DXF and start working with the layout in AutoCad until I find a layout I like. I suspect it will be just as I described, unless it won’t work for whatever reason. I am going to call a powder coat shop when we get back into town and ask about textured finishes. We’ll see where that leads.

Thanks. Brad.

Brad Christy

Dan,

I don’t have a problem with putting some space between the tack and speedo. I mostly watch the tach, anyway. The only time pay much attention to the speedo is when I’m running hard and I just wanna know.

I do like that little widget, though. Symmetry aside, it solves the issue without replacing the panel at all. I’d still have to remove all the gages to cut the hole for a the new voltage indicator/USB unit, but I’m looking at that anyway.

Thanks. Brad.

Tartilla

I only matters with how you feel about it. Just keep in mind the golden ratio concepts so it harmonizes appearance if possible.

Function is beauty.

Once you go through the process, if you don't like the results, it will be easier to re-do the project.

87MirageIntruder

On a boat I had years back I had a local metal place that had a cutting table make me an aluminum dash panel and then I wrapped it.

AmiableDave

Steve Dunning over at Innotech can help you if you need a new dash made. He just made me a blue carbon fiber dash.
Innotech Products Inc - Home

Brad Christy

Guys,

So I'm assessing whether I really want to dig into this, as, as you undoubtedly know, there are a blue gargantuazillion wires back there.

I've settled on (probably) 1/8" aluminum sheet, laser cut or water jetted, and powder coated matte white. Might even look into having a PQ vinyl cut to go in the center if there's room. My local vinyl shop already has the file; he'd just have to shrink it down for me.

I will be calling a local sheet metal shop tomorrow to see if they would be able to scan the outside shape of the panel, provide me with a DXF that I can then manipulate in AutoCad and work out where I want to position the gages, then cut the panel for me. I'm pretty sure they can/will, but I want to make sure before I start disassembling this thing.

So...... For those of you who have gone down this rabbit hole, what's the best way to remove the gages, keeping the wires associated with the gages, switches and/or lights they go to? I'm thinking labeling them is likely a bridge too far, given the sheer number of them and the current point on the calendar. The dash doesn't seem to want to come out all that far (far enough, I suppose), but there are some cluster connectors that may allow it to come out further, and some zip ties that are likely harmless to cut as well for the duration of the project. Any guidance would be massively appreciated.

Also...

What's this thingy hanging loose behind the dash panel? It's connected to the back of the depth finder. It looks like it's supposed to mount to something and/or maybe house something, but it's not and it's not. Depth finder works fine, other than the fact that the transponder has come dislodged from its mooring (another item on my to-do list before spring). It worked perfectly during the sea trial and for a time right after we bought the boat, so I'm sure the dysfunction it suffers now is due to the dislodged transponder.

Thanks. Brad.

ICDEDPPL

iTrader: (1)

That`s your alarm.

I usually use tape to label stuff but I did get a nice labeler that has com ein handy more than I ever thought it would .
Besides shrink labels there are flag labels that wrap around a wire onto itself.. and lots of other options.

ICDEDPPL

iTrader: (1)

If you get frustrated just think of my dash .
people been in there adding and rewiring since the mid 80`s!