WILDTHING TAZ

WELL I'V DONE WHAT I COULD IN REBUILDING THEM FOR A GOOD PRICE. WE ARE MAKING A FIXTURE TO REDO THE BOTTOM OF THE RING WHERE THE DRIVE ALIGNS INTO IT. I'V SEEN TO MANY OF THEM WEAR ON ONE SIDE. WHICH WILL CAUSE TO MUCH SIDE PLAY. NEXT WEEK I SHOULD HAVE THIS DONE AND WILL LET YOU KNOW IF IT WORKS. IF YOU NEED YOURS FIXED CHECK OUT MY WEB SITE AT WWW.JRMARINE.COM. RON BENDER

WILDTHING TAZ

I Have Also Put Grease Fittings In My Bravo 1 Housing Like The Trs Had. It's Worked Great. It's A Little Work But With My Stainless Shafts And Grease It Will Last Much Longer. I Will Post A Photo Of My Housing Tomorrow Morning. Rb

Big Block Billy

What we need is a seal that has a stainless shell so that it doesn't rot out. I don't like paying Merc. $15 for a seal that has to be changed before it rots. It's amazing how they go through the trouble of having the seal manufacturer put the merc part # on it , and not the generic seal #, but aren't able to have them make the shell out of stainless !!! I found this one out today It's almost funny how the original NoK brand seal had a part # , but was too deteriorated to read. , I went and bought one from a merc dealer, hoping to acertain the NOK #. So that I could go and stock up at the bearing shop. What about where the bellows attaches ? It seems that they made it extra weak on purpose so that it could rot or break easily. I have one that somebody pried off the boot and snapped a chunk off. It should be at least !/4" thick not less than 1/8th !!! How about the steel studs that hold it on the boat. They should be stainless too. I'm gonna make them up out of S.S. I think Merc. likes to make throw away stuff. I remember taking out a loan, buying a Bravo and buying a Brand new transom assy in the box and installing it on my boat about 5 years ago. I guess it's time to take it apart, check it out, and try to save it before it's a total P.O.S. I'm not the only one who spent hard earned money on these things. I think they are well designed, but WE know what could be much better about them.

Big Block Billy

How about using a 7/16" U-bolt? Maybe a modification could be done. This would create alot better clamp down force. A 7/16" fastener would allow at least 20lbs more torque on it's fasteners. Maybe it would break the weak gimbal ring though. There has to be more answers to correct these units. BBB

WILDTHING TAZ

It Wouldn't Break The Ring Because Your Locking Up Solid On The Square Of The Swivel Shaft. But To Change The Radius Casted In The Ring From The 3/8 To 7/16 Dia U-bolt Would Be Close To Impossible.

Big Block Billy

I like that close to impossible thing. There is a glimmer of hope that it is possible. Maybe I could carefully grind the groove with a die grinder and a ball shaped bit. I could practice on a broken ring. I could go crazy scribing lines over dychem(red's my favorite !) I noticed that McMaster-Carr carries ss 316 and 304 alloy u-bolts in all different dimensions. Only coarse thread though. They are apx $7 ea. Sounds better than $30 for a "mercruiser" one. A longer one could be cut and re threaded with fine threads, or I guess a load of them could be easily custom made. Why does it have to be a u- bolt? Couldn't it have a plate on each side with (2) 7/16 Bolts ? Also what has to be done to modify the bell (helmet) so that it can accept the h.p. pins ? Is it just a drill and ream job ? If I'm going through the trouble to rebuild units to sell them I may as well beef em up, and make them more desireable. (profitable) I'm going to take another one apart tomorrow and see if I can come up with some more ideas. This one doesn't have any slop in the steering shaft. Hopefully I can get the #'s off the seal and lower bushing. So far I've spent several days trying to gear up and find the parts to do these assemblies right ! Maybe one of these days instead of most of my money going out the money will start coming in !