Turbojack

No you still will have pressure. The water pressure should be the same because the restriction of where the water exits into the exhaust. The balls are there to cause a little more restriction so the water does not take the path of least resistance, instead of going thru the motor. If that was the case then I (with no thermo or bypass) would have zero water pressure.

Kanookstr

In my case, without the balls I have 2-3 psi pressure. I tried going that route back in 1999 when I was seeing to much pressure,(over 35psi) So I thought by removing the plastic balls I could lower it, but it lowered it way to much. So then I put them back in, and I added a few hole to the stat, but that kept the temps from ever coming up, and it still didn't lower it enough. So I put the pressure relief valve, and the problem was solved.

bsag

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, WATER TEMP AND PRESSURE GAUGES LOOK LIKE WINDSHIELD WIPERS. IVE TRIED A NEW IMPELLER WITH NO CHANGE, I HOPE SOMEONE CAN FIGURE THIS OUT.

Kanookstr

Bsag, are you running stock engine and stock outdrive pickup??? Or are you also running a thru transom water pickup???

I think before I change the impeller, I'm going to swap the water supply hoses. Have the thru transom supply the intercooler, and then have the outdrive supply the engine. If this fixes it, than I know it's the thru transom pickup not working right with my step hull???

bsag

IM RUNNING A VORTECH SUPERCHARGER ON A 502 MPI WITH STOCK WATER PUMP WITH LOW WATER PICKUP IN A 27 WARLOCK.

Hudson

Suggest looking for something electrical in the temperature sending circuit.

The tests I did on my temperature guage and sending unit lead me to think that a 40 degree change up and down in 5 seconds of time is not realistic. The sending unit is buried in a bronze tip and it takes time for the heat to either soak in and raise the temperature or to cool off. I put the sender in boiling water and then took it out and and put it in ice water and it takes time to react even to that exteme temperature change.

Do you have access to another sending unit and guage that you can install in addition to the one you are using, or some other means of verifying the temperature?

Good luck tracking down this one!

Kanookstr

Good point hudson, I don't like the fact that the sender is in the Procharger stat housing to begin with. I found a spot on the intake manifold that I was considering drilling and tapping for the sender in a better location. Theres a nice spot to the right of where the stat housing mounts on a 502 MPI manifold. Like I said in the previous posts. The only difference this year for this motor is ,,

1) sea strainer
2) step Hull (might be affecting thru transom pickup)
3) Impeller one year older than last year.

I'm going to swap the water pickup locations Saturday, and see what happens. (Out drive to feed engine, instead of thru transom feeding engine).

BTW Bsag, Is your warlock a step hull?? and did this fluctuation happen from day one, or did it start happening after a while of running normaly????

bsag

YES IT IS A STEP HULL. MY TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE GO TOGETHER- 175 DEG=15PSI, 145DEG= 25PSI WHEN WATER PRESSURE DROPS TEMPERATURE INCREASES AND WHEN WATER PRESSURE RISES TEMPERATURE DROPS. I HAVENT TRIED DRILLING THE THERMOSTATE YET.

Kanookstr

" bsag, Did this fluctuation happen from day one, or did it start happening after a while of running normaly????


Hum???? two stepped hulls,
2 with thru transom pickups
2 having the same problem????
Where getting closer.

bsag

Sorry i wasnt clearer, my low water pickup is in the drive. Once after running at wot the temp went to 145 and pressure was 18 psi and stayed that way even after i returned to cruising speed. Then after i left my favorite watering hole it went back to up and down