TomZ

iTrader: (2)

I got the drive removed from the transom and got the drive halves split. It looks like the lower unit is in good shape, but the upper is pretty toasty. I have a tooth missing from the drive gear and from the driven gear. The teeth got down in the lower bearings and trashed those as well. So I have a lot of cleanup to do and a rebuild kit to install. It looks like the damage was either caused by age or a strike with the prop. It does look like I grazed something during the last couple of trips. Either way, it looks like it was damaged by a strike or just plain fatigue (it looks like the drive was fixed at one time before... maybe inferior parts were used?). I'm going to fix it myself so wish me luck folks.

A few people have suggested actually moving up in gear ratio from the 1.5 to a 1.65 or even higher like a 1.8x or whatever to exploit the RPM capabilities of my 383. On the other hand a couple of people have said that it would cause more stress on the lower unit and that I should move down to 1.32 gearing. I like the idea of being able to add pitch AND wind the eawsily into it's peak operating range (6K RPM). Shorter gears (taller numerically) will make the combination run more efficiently I think. Any thoughts?

I'm more than sure that the cause of death was NOT from over-powering the drive. I have babied the boat because of detonation issues... no holeshots, etc. I think it was just destined to go.

Comments, suggestions?

Thanks!

TEAMBAJA

What generation ALPHA is it?

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

First generation, 1983.

David

That should make it an "R" or "MR" model. Are you saying you bonged up the prop you got from me? J/K.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

How would you distinguish it from an Alpha or other drive. It looks just like an Alpha One and all the parts that I buy for it are for an Alpha One (water pumps, etc.). There is no hook ring on it or any ribs ont he case like the Model 1. I've been told that it has an Alpha One on it... maybe not original?

The prop is not banged up... it just has a tiny little scrape on it. Maybe enough to have caused a weakness in the gears?

David

R and MR models were made after the Type 1 and look like an Alpha One. There are minor differences and changes internally through the production years, that result in the Alpha designation. Some parts are interchangeable and others aren't.

Biggus

iTrader: (1)

If the top of the lower vertical drive shaft has a spring loaded pin it would be an MR drive. If it does not have the spring loaded pin it`s an Alpha.

The Alpha drive has a much stronger lower drive shaft, about a third bigger in diameter.

Good news is you can bolt on an Alpha lower to your upper.

I just blew up my Alpha in our Pachanga....and the Cig has a blown motor also..and the dog drove my truck into a tree....I`m down to my wife`s Kayak

olysan

Hey TomZ,

Sorry to hear about the alpha troubles. I think you're on the right track spining that thing faster. I would suggest that you might want to add a drive shower if you do. I put one of the simreks on my alpha a couple of years ago, it took about 15 minutes to install, and I feel like it's really helped keep my alpha healthy.

Regards
Mike

Dixie Doug

Merc. made a 1.5 hd gear,don't know if they still do,if not get the 1.36 ,I like the ideal of higher ratio's.They won't hold up,the gears are too thin.FORGETABOUTIT

aero-offshore

Hem,,,,,, 383 turning 6000rpm and an alpha, I've had that nightmare!!!!!!