mcollinstn

REAL aircraft stripper will soften it in 30 minutes. Comes off in big thick sheets with a putty knife.

I've still got a can of it somewhere. Bought it at a wholesale automotive paint jobber. Got a picture of a LearJet on a gloss black can. More warnings on it than instructions.

Strong fumes. I'd expect that you'd die on the spot if you leaned in a took a good huff.

I like using chemicals for the majority of it, and then using flexible scotchbrite pads on an angle grinder to get the little bit of remainder (although ain't much gonna remain).

Sanding stuff off I still end up hacking up black snot loogeys even with a good respirator. I'd rather it end up in a gooey pile than in my lungs.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

glass beaded them. SO MUCH BETTER.

Update on drive stripping

carter38

Try heating up the parts with a heat gun before you put the striper on, went through the same problem the heat works wonders.

cig1988

My drives on the '89 Bullet were in bad shape. Had massive build up of spray can paint where some idiot painted over everything. Anywhere there was corrosion it was spot blasted and the rest was wet sanded with 220 grit. Primed with zinc chromate, epoxy primer. Wet sanded with 400, top coated with imron. Sure took a long time to do but the end results were great.