Wildfire

Just doing some thinking and came up with this:

Epoxy a stainless strip (1/4" x 1" x perimeter) to the inside of the hull. Drop the deck on. Drill through both layers of glass and SST. Tap the SST for a 1/4 x 20 machine screw. Attach deck with 5200 and SST bolts (6" centers) coated with loc-tite.

Figured that would be a lot better than "wood screws" and easier than typical through bolting. Not sure about epoxying the joint together.

Basically, I am looking for a better way to put the Magnum back together.

What do you think? What am I missing?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

That'll be a whole lotta drilling and tapping.
What about the rubrail? You will have to drill thru the SS also then. Only problem would be that the rubrail screws holes need to be undersized to self tap, but would need to be oversized in the SS for the screws to pass thru. Ain't no reg self tapping rubrail screw going to tap it's way thru the SS. Unless you are planning on bolting it on to! Not want to FG the joint from the inside?

Audiofn

That is how Formula's were built. I am not sure about now. You do not ussually hold the hull halfs together with the screws first. The Rubrail on the older boats hold it all together. So you would only need to put a few screws in there to start with then the rubrail after. On my Formula I used 5200 btwn the deck joint and then trough bolted it with a washer and nylok nut on the inside. It worked FANTASTIC!!! The boat does not rattle and flex as much and there has been NO screws backing out.

Jon

Wildfire

Guys,

Thanks for posting. A few questions,

How far between centers on the screws?

What diameter screws?

Any unaccessable areas on the joint?

SST is kind of difficult to work with. What about 3/8" thick aluminum?

TIA