US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

PPG paints products

Alumum cleaner
Al conditioner
non sanding Epoxy primer
Acrylic Enamel paint.

Painting sand blasted outdrives.

a) After primered, do I just paint or need to lightly sand/scuff before painting?

b)Reading the 'instructions' what is meant by induction period?

Thanks!

Cignificant

The paint will adhere better if you lightly sand first.

"The waiting or induction period, is used to give the two components (Part-A Epoxy & Part-B Catalyst) time to "react" to each other, prior to bonding/reacting with the substrate." In other words, the time you wait after mixing to thin and apply the paint.

GeoGraphics INC

If you read what you wrote, Non-sanding primer, That would tell you what to do, sometimes there is a time limit as to how long you can leave the primer before topcoating and after a certain time you may need to sand and then re-coat, this should be on the can or on a sheet that your paint supplier should have. Good luck

Cord

iTrader: (2)

You do not need to sand the primer after priming. It's when you are painting over paint, that you should scuff the surface to break the sheen. Use a 3m scotch bright pad. The green one. You only need to break the gloss, not turn the surface white.

The can will have some directions on when the top coat can be applied over the primer. Some want you to wait 24 hours (because the primer will shrink). Often, if too much time goes by, you'll then need to scuff and reprime. Again the can will give you the directions.

The induction period is the time that the two products must sit after being mixed. This should not be confused with the flash time, drying time or recoat time.

If you are using PPG products, then you must be buying them from a professional dealer. They have sheets on all this stuff. Get the sheets, read them, and highlite them. Especially the times, mixing ratios, and air pressures. This is where a second person comes in handy. When you have paint running through a strainer is NOT when you want to be reading the instructions!

Also be sure to have a full roll of quality paper towels and a gallon of slow laquer thinner handy to clean up with.

jeff bratton

use a urethane type paint, it is alot harder than enamel

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

The supplies came with no instructions other than the mixture ratios and air press. that are on the can labels.

The primer is DP40 Epoxy primer. Yep, right there on the can 'NON SANDING' duh!


I just downloaded the procedure from the PPG website.
I'm using DP402 primer catalyst, so it looks like I need no induction time as like the DP401 requires. Also looks like sanding is required if not painted within 1 week just as GEO stated. I'm looking at doing this all in 1 day, so no sanding then.


Ought to be fun. At least it is on the lower units, so if not perfect it won't be as obvious. But still would like for it to turn out good.

Thanks

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

I agree PPG Concept Single Stage works great for projects like this.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I bought the stuff that was recommended on the Merc website. So don't tell me NOW what will be better.
Obviously I know nothing about this stuff.

The PPG website describes this as a "Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel System"

Paint is DAR, with DXR Ultra hardener.
Am I still good to go?


Thanks

Cord

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what the different chemicals are. I always have to refer to the affore mentioned work sheets. I'm happy that's a acrylic. So it's a modern paint and you'll be A-OK. I've used the ppg acrylic enamel before and have been very happy with the results.

homan

Don't be Mr. likkity split, take a breather in between coats, I never sprayed PPG but with Imron I'd say I could get another coat on next thing you know a run before your eyes. Do some test sprays on something before you try the drive.