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Old 02-26-2004, 09:02 PM
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Anyone installed a Whipple on their own? I'm considering doing it on an HP500EFI and am looking for input re: suggestions and potential problems.
Appreciate any info available.
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Old 02-27-2004, 08:02 AM
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It is very easy when you pull the engine out of the boat. Just tear the engine down to the heads and start the build up. Should take less than a day after the engine is out for the build up, another day to install boost, fuel pressure guages, rig the fuel pump and wire. Add one more if you go with stainless braided hoses on the fuel and water systems- highly recommended. If you are going to do poker runs, buy a heavy duty oil cooler. They are awsome systems, I highly recommend them.
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Old 02-27-2004, 08:13 AM
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Welcome to the board hotlavey!!!

I have installed a couple of the kits and here is couple of tips. The install is really strait forward, especially on the new kits. The instructions are good and the kit is very complete.
One thing it doesn't come with is the Fuel lines, but that is because the fuel pump gets mounted in different locations depending on the boat and the installer. You can measure and order them from whipple or just get them made at your local equipment supply store.
Now I'm not saying anyone can do it, because you have to be competent enough to change the intake manifold and I would strongly suggest that you change the head gaskets at the same time. And while you are at it, at least have the valves checked. HP500EFI's seem to have more issues with valve springs also, so changing them if they are not new, might be a good idea also.
If you are comfortable changing these items yourself, or you have a friend that is and he is helping, then go for it. You definitely want to take some plug readings the first few times out. They have the kit setup very good, but if you burn down the motor because you just run it and it is lean, it is your fault not Whipples. This is part of the install that every good mechanic will do when installing any kit of this type whether it is in the boat or on the dyno.
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Old 02-27-2004, 10:31 AM
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Rocky & John,

Thanks a ton for your quick responses on the Whipple install. I'm not sure I want to go to the trouble of yanking the engine and not sure why I would have to. In as much as all the work(except the fuel pump) is on top and my engine is very accessable(2750 Lavey) I think I should be able to do it in the boat.
My engine has 65 hours on it. Do you still feel the valve springs and head gaskets should be replaced? I have not run the engine super hard as the boat is only run at Parker on the Colorado River and Havasu. I did have Arizona Speed recalibrate the ECU and I installed a Mono-blade throttle body and the boat runs 81(5300 RPM) on GPS, but only did that a few times. It really has been babied the rest of the time.
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Old 02-27-2004, 11:36 AM
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I have not had problems with breaking springs, however I did have my engine blueprinted before I put mine together and paid to have Dustin fly out and dial it in with a high level air/fuel meter and a laptop. It idles and runs like stock.
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Old 02-27-2004, 11:50 AM
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John, when they blueprinted your engine did they change the springs? If so, what springs did they use? I knew the springs in the carburated HP were weak but I thought Mercury fixed that on the EFI.
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Old 02-27-2004, 12:04 PM
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hotlavey,

We've had Whipples on our 500 efi's for about 2 1/2 years now, virtually trouble free. We installed them while in the boat (Triple engine Black Thunder). As the other guys have mentioned, DO change headgaskets and have a fresh valve job completed. At that time they'll also check your valve springs. The cost is something to consider, but will insure you more trouble free hours. As to fuel lines, Braided SS are not Coast Guard approved unless wrapped in a CG approved material. The high pressure blue lines by Aeroquip or similar are CG approved and still look pretty sanitary.

Dustin, his Dad and Family are first class people and will stick with you to make the set up exactly what you want. As John mentioned, getting it programmed (ECU) right may require a visit by Dustin. Once completed you're good to go until you make a substantial change in the engine or gear ratio.

have a ball!
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Old 02-27-2004, 12:33 PM
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Steven, many thanks to you too for your info. What a great forum this is. Question, with only 65 hours on the engine is a head gasket change necessary? If so, is there a particular mfg. or is the Mercury set OK? Same question re: the valve springs. Will the Bravo XZ drive need any work? I really don't want to spend a fortune on a relatively new boat. Besides, my wife would probably cause me to have some of my parts replaced if I did.

Thanks again,

Tom McLean
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Old 02-27-2004, 12:50 PM
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You MUST REPLACE HEAD GSKTS. I didn't and learned the hard way. It cost me more in the end. Also get a valve job done and be sure to tell them that you are installing a blower. After they know this, they will cut the valves at a different angle to provide you with more durability for the long term.

If you do this mod you will love the power and acceleration. It is awesome !!!

I have installed many of these kits. Drop a line if you have any questions.

Dave
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Old 02-27-2004, 03:53 PM
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Dave, thanks to you for the info. I looked into the head gasket and valve job and found most everone agrees that it should be done. By the by, what engine oil do you recommend? I read an article by Teague and he stated that he would not use Synthetic oil in this engine as it causes problems with the cam rollers because it is too slick. He also said no multi-grade. Your opinion?

Thanks again,

Tom
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