US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Reassembling my lower units. Can not get the thrust washer to crush. I'm up to 150 ft lbs and still have approx 3/32 prop shaft play. Yes I know it is set by preload, not torque. Just using torque wrench for curiosity. The carrier goes in fine. I removed the O-ring, thrust washer and thrust ring and reinstalled the carrier. It went in fine tightening the nut by hand until no propshaft end play, so I know it is just getting the thrust ring to compress, but damn, it ain't budging. Carrier is sealed with Perfect Seal, and OMC triple guard on the threads. Thrust washer is new.

Can I use an impact and let it hammer away and watch the tool for turning? I think it will be up over 200ft. lbs to get it tight. Probably more. Is there some secret or what? Just how much torque can the housing withstand before chit starts busting?

Thanks!

Mbam

Make sure there is grease on the end of the nut where it rubs the thrust washer. Put a big pipe on the end of your breaker bar and keep going. Don't bother with the torque wrench. Hardest part is holong the lower unit.

marinetrans

Marc is right. Its hard to hold the lower unit from moving around. In my drive stand, I have a jig that holds the lower unit from twisting when crushing the load ring. We careful not to break the cavitation plate or skeg, which your probably aware of. Most drive stands don't stop the lower unit from twisting, so I had to invent something.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

well, Ok guys. I'll give it a try. Brought a 3 foot pipe home. BTW, how much is a new housing?
Like you both said, hardest part is holding it. Especially since I just painted them. If the boat was here, I think it would be easy just bolting them back on, but leaving the driveshaft spline coupler out so it will turn freely to set preload. Sound good?

Thanks

Vinny P

I know this may be obvious, but are you sure the threads are not burred up. There is a rethreading tool for this on E-Bay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=26455

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

checkmate,
threads are excellant condition. Nut screws on by hand.
Thanks for the thought.

Marc, marinetrans
You guys were right, 3' pipe did the trick. Had the wife sit on it to hold it down, good thing she is a BIG girl. j/k

1 down 1 to go.
1st one came out perfect for all the specs.

2nd one needs the backlash taken up a little. It is running right at .020. I'm shooting for .012/.015.
Will a .005 shim be enough? Must be a guide line as to what size shim = backlash change. Don't want to have to take it apart again, so looking to get closer.
'99 B1's

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.

Jerry

marinetrans

Did you check your backlash before you took it apart? Did you change any bearings? You would want to subtract .006 to .007 to put it in the range of .013 to .014. But I can't understand why its off that much unless the race is not bottomed out or there is a piece of debris under the race.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

No, I did not check before hand as I was just going to reassemble with orignal parts. But I ended up replacing both bearings on the driveshaft and the one in the carrier housing. The large bearing was ok, so didn't replace it. I do recall that one of the drives had more backlash than the other just going by feel before I disaasembled them. Possibly this is that one.
The pinion height is right at .025.
Don't you mean I would have to ADD shims behind the large bearing race to close up the backlash?? It's too much right now.

Again, thanks for your help.

Jerry

marinetrans

I though you were playing w/ pinion height without the tool and wanting to bring your pinion down (which I'm glad to hear your not doing). Thats right on for pinion height .025. Add .006 to .007 to foward bearing race. Why though has the backlash opened up? Did you use a Timken bearing or a different company? Did you use the orignal shims?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

2 DONE!

marinetrans,

I added.006, which brought it right in specs. Yes, I used Timken for the fact that they are what was in it, plus they are more likely to measure the exact same as the old ones. I only had to reshim the driveshaft on the 2nd one .003 lower. I hoped that would have been enough to bring in the backlash, but it wasn't. This one could not have been within specs from the factory. It is now.