Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
11-19-2006, 09:59 PM
#41
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Location: Tarpon Springs, FL Winter/LBI, NJ Summers
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Re: Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
Rons on vaca, I hear he will be back this week. I was unable to exchange my ring with him since the pervious owner put bolts in it and cosmetically damaged the back. Ron cant get to it till feb or march, only does exchanges in winter I beleive. Im trying the machine shaft only route, adding a little steel to it..see how it holds up after its done. I still have some meat left in the ring...
11-20-2006, 06:04 AM
#42
Re: Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
Why , Just why did Merc. machine the g- ring the way they did. Shouldn't they know better ? After all they have all of the best engineers and metalurgists, chemists, etc at thier disposal. The real deal is that they are profit motivated and design in inherent flaws that go bad after the warranty period, Period !!!
I like working on Mercruiser stuff, but over the years have come to realize what I mentioned above.
I have been into a few dozen Bravo Transom assy's and a few more Alpha's. I have noticed some things that were better in earlier Transom's (including Bravo) that were omitted. Namely the Grease fiting, And to save money on machining merc also stopped machining the steering pin with the grease passages.(any wonder why the steel bushings and shaft as well as the steel caged seal go bad !) I bought 2 stainless pins from Hill and I had to drill them too ! I couldn't believe last year when I worked on a 1 year old boat and went to re-torque the u-bolt nuts and they crumbled. They were either copper or Brass and were shot and couldn't possibly hold the required amount of torque, and this was a heavy boat with a Bravo 3. How come they were not stainless ? . I still have what's left of one of the nuts and will take a pic and post it later. Merc. should know better.
Greed really shows it's ugly head..... BBB
I like working on Mercruiser stuff, but over the years have come to realize what I mentioned above.
I have been into a few dozen Bravo Transom assy's and a few more Alpha's. I have noticed some things that were better in earlier Transom's (including Bravo) that were omitted. Namely the Grease fiting, And to save money on machining merc also stopped machining the steering pin with the grease passages.(any wonder why the steel bushings and shaft as well as the steel caged seal go bad !) I bought 2 stainless pins from Hill and I had to drill them too ! I couldn't believe last year when I worked on a 1 year old boat and went to re-torque the u-bolt nuts and they crumbled. They were either copper or Brass and were shot and couldn't possibly hold the required amount of torque, and this was a heavy boat with a Bravo 3. How come they were not stainless ? . I still have what's left of one of the nuts and will take a pic and post it later. Merc. should know better.
Greed really shows it's ugly head..... BBB
11-20-2006, 06:18 AM
#43
Re: Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
Also a few more secrets.... 1-1/16 waterpump wrench sold by Armstrong tools works well removing the nut from the steering shaft, and I have used it with a motor in the boat and have been sucessful, although Ron's way seems much easier.
A 41/64" Drill bit will drill out a stubborn lower swivel pin.
The lower pin is 7/8 " and can be center punched and drilled a few times , starting around 3/16" and gradually stepping up the bits. With the 41/64's hole the remaining 1/16" or so will shear off from the cotter pin. Then the two halfs of the cotter pin will come out from each side. A new pin is only $22 From Merc.
Many times it may become difficult to remove the cotter pin and pin may be held in by corrosion. Sometimes heat is required but it's not worth compromising a transom plate so we can sacrifice this silly little pin to save time and make things way easier if necessary.
Another trick is when replacing trim hoses cut them off flush to the nut with a pair of diagonal cutters, and remove with a socket. I have a few more tricks up my sleeve , but will save them for later !!! BBB
A 41/64" Drill bit will drill out a stubborn lower swivel pin.
The lower pin is 7/8 " and can be center punched and drilled a few times , starting around 3/16" and gradually stepping up the bits. With the 41/64's hole the remaining 1/16" or so will shear off from the cotter pin. Then the two halfs of the cotter pin will come out from each side. A new pin is only $22 From Merc.
Many times it may become difficult to remove the cotter pin and pin may be held in by corrosion. Sometimes heat is required but it's not worth compromising a transom plate so we can sacrifice this silly little pin to save time and make things way easier if necessary.
Another trick is when replacing trim hoses cut them off flush to the nut with a pair of diagonal cutters, and remove with a socket. I have a few more tricks up my sleeve , but will save them for later !!! BBB
11-20-2006, 08:36 AM
#44
Registered
Re: Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
I am surpised the mechanic didn't take one look at that and say "Wow what a great idea"
The plate does not even sit under the water on mine and it's so much easier and beefier than the Merc repair method.
You must be into that guy by what....$1500 for a job like that?
This kit only takes about 3 hours!
Keep us posted on any Hill updates please, it'd be nice to avoid if he's poor at delivery.
The plate does not even sit under the water on mine and it's so much easier and beefier than the Merc repair method.
You must be into that guy by what....$1500 for a job like that?
This kit only takes about 3 hours!
Keep us posted on any Hill updates please, it'd be nice to avoid if he's poor at delivery.
11-20-2006, 08:55 AM
#45
AT Cult Member #3
VIP Member
Re: Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
I'm with Wowchad........So much easier and looks much better than the Frankenstein looking plugs. 
But if you're alright with it....to each his own
But if you're alright with it....to each his own
11-21-2006, 05:36 AM
#48
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Re: Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
One of my friends has a 25' Outlaw, this summer we noticed that it had a very fine hairline crack on the gimbal ring right in between the U-bolts. His mechanic said that it was there and might have come with someone tightening the nuts too tight. He said to watch it and see what happens. Is this a good idea?
11-26-2006, 10:09 PM
#50
Re: Bravo Gimbal Ring Repair
If it is really a crack it is in trouble and may let go... At the least making for sloppy steering and eventually housing failure !
Cracks especially in aluminum, tend to grow.
Ever see a WWII airplane fuselage crack where they drilled the ends of the crack to stop it?
This is because of the grain structure of the metal.
I wouldn't trust a cracked ring, maybe someone had hit something, or dropped the trailer with the drive down.
Although it could be a casting flaw and be fine.
Do you have any pictures for us ?
Drilling a G- ring in this critical area is not a good option as compared to a small crack in a huge fuseliage... BBB
Cracks especially in aluminum, tend to grow.
Ever see a WWII airplane fuselage crack where they drilled the ends of the crack to stop it?
This is because of the grain structure of the metal.
I wouldn't trust a cracked ring, maybe someone had hit something, or dropped the trailer with the drive down.
Although it could be a casting flaw and be fine.
Do you have any pictures for us ?
Drilling a G- ring in this critical area is not a good option as compared to a small crack in a huge fuseliage... BBB
