How does this 502 look for a marine application?
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How does this 502 look for a marine application?
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Best Explanation of the diff from street to marine from b4m
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...8&highlight=zz
Originally posted by Back4More
Blocks run colder and pistons run hotter....and with a blower on top even hotter.
More clearance between piston and cylinder...ring ends get more clearance too
Blower pistons are a must with that much power expected out of it...and a high quality set of rings too.
More clearance in the rod bearings for oil flow to remove heat from the bearings.
Re balancing the rotating assy...If its anything like the ZZ502 it will rattle it's self to death in no time.
If your looking for a 1000hp blower motor you better plunk down the cash for top of the line internals...not to mention a beefy aftermarket block...There is no such thing as a cheap marine blower motor making 700+hp.
I not slamming this bad assed crate motor, but it is not for powerboats...I read alot about people blowing up the 502s running them at the track.
I know nothing about detailed marine engine building but learned a bit while having mine built.
Oh, and we did'nt even talk cams and valve train yet....
Blocks run colder and pistons run hotter....and with a blower on top even hotter.
More clearance between piston and cylinder...ring ends get more clearance too
Blower pistons are a must with that much power expected out of it...and a high quality set of rings too.
More clearance in the rod bearings for oil flow to remove heat from the bearings.
Re balancing the rotating assy...If its anything like the ZZ502 it will rattle it's self to death in no time.
If your looking for a 1000hp blower motor you better plunk down the cash for top of the line internals...not to mention a beefy aftermarket block...There is no such thing as a cheap marine blower motor making 700+hp.
I not slamming this bad assed crate motor, but it is not for powerboats...I read alot about people blowing up the 502s running them at the track.
I know nothing about detailed marine engine building but learned a bit while having mine built.
Oh, and we did'nt even talk cams and valve train yet....
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Check out Salee and Pace for hot pricing on these engines.I bought one last fall for 6000.I see Salees got them advertised for 6075.I would not use this as a drop in motor but rather a crate of parts for a good start.I tore mine down and had the bores loosened up a bit,balanced the rotating assembly,installed inconel exhaust valves,new marine pan,roller rockers,and retarded the intake lobe on the cam 4 degrees(this gave me a 108 ilcl and a 112 lsa).The heads would be a poor choice if you do not have closed cooling due to corrosion.I did have some warranty issues with this engine that would have caused me grief if I hadn't caught them on assembly(Flaw in bore on block that required block replacement and tight valve guide clearances).I still feel that this a good starting point for the box of parts you are getting.When I did mine I had no parts due to a catastrophic engine failure.The bottom line is you got to spend a lot of time to build a good motor whether you pay someone to do it or do it yourself.I personally like winter projects and the pride of doing it yourself.
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