Procharger Help needed
#21
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iTrader: (4)
Hey Rockie,
Hopefully I’ll have some good input for you Monday.
I’ve got mine setup with the 120* with one 1/8 hole and then runnig two 1/8 minimum ID steam relief hoses off the back of the manifold. I also am using a 3/8 ID bypass and a pressure relief. I’m also currently plumbed with the intercooler T’d in just after the sea water pump. (this may change depending on pressure)
I’ve also put a .495 ID restrictor in each hose going to the exhaust based on the following thought.
Based on extensive testing by Whipple and Teague (G.T.) it has been concluded that an approximately .700” diameter restrictor plate in place of a thermostat has proven to provide the best temperature and pressure control for blown, non thermostatically controlled applications. The two .495 ID restrictors are the equivalent to the one .700 hole.
With that in mind I’m theorizing that when the thermo is closed I will be dumping off excess pressure thru the pressure relief valve and bypass. When the thermostat opens I won’t see a big free fall in pressure due to the restriction going to the exhaust and the closing of the relief valve. This should keep pressure fluctuation to a minimum and also maintain a good working, proven pressure and flow.
Going to find out
Will report Monday after a run in 40* water over the weekend.
Later,
Dave
Hopefully I’ll have some good input for you Monday.
I’ve got mine setup with the 120* with one 1/8 hole and then runnig two 1/8 minimum ID steam relief hoses off the back of the manifold. I also am using a 3/8 ID bypass and a pressure relief. I’m also currently plumbed with the intercooler T’d in just after the sea water pump. (this may change depending on pressure)
I’ve also put a .495 ID restrictor in each hose going to the exhaust based on the following thought.
Based on extensive testing by Whipple and Teague (G.T.) it has been concluded that an approximately .700” diameter restrictor plate in place of a thermostat has proven to provide the best temperature and pressure control for blown, non thermostatically controlled applications. The two .495 ID restrictors are the equivalent to the one .700 hole.
With that in mind I’m theorizing that when the thermo is closed I will be dumping off excess pressure thru the pressure relief valve and bypass. When the thermostat opens I won’t see a big free fall in pressure due to the restriction going to the exhaust and the closing of the relief valve. This should keep pressure fluctuation to a minimum and also maintain a good working, proven pressure and flow.
Going to find out
Will report Monday after a run in 40* water over the weekend.
Later,
Dave
#22
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iTrader: (4)
Guys, a simple solution to the cold operation cycle is that procharger sells a device that gets wired into the water temperature sender that never lets the computer know the temperature is cold. I questioned the starting ease with this, but it always cold started great, even on some very cold days. I know remapping the computer and adding a thermostat is a better way, but this worked great for me, and I did not have the cost. Fyi, I have heard several people talk about running 40+ psi at idle, this was wayyyyy too much fuel for my motor. I ended up with running 33lbs. at idle and my plugs showed a slightly rich condition.(502 Mag, M-3, AN-10 fuel lines with return to the tank) My advice now is to keep it simple don't change too many things or else you won't know what the results of the changes are. I would also recommend that you go back to stock timing, it should work fine for your application. I had great luck with my procharger system and you will too.
Eric
Eric