dstroyed

I need some help form your pros. I had a stereo system professionally installed when the boat was new 2 years ago. He used the stock Clarion head unit Fosgate power series 450S and 550x installed in cabin closet that run the stock 4 speakers in the and 2 10" subs. He ran everything with the heavy gage wire and fuses. Very nice install.

I then installed a 3rd battery. I run 2 off one switch and the other as a single with a switch. I usually run all 3 batteries until I get to the cove then switch the single battery off and run the stereo from the 2 batteries so I always have a reserve if I run the batteries dead. Which has never happened.

The problem is that when I turn the stereo up the amps will shut down temp then start back up again. It is as if they are running out of power. It will even do this if I run all 3 batteries. I would think that would be more than enough power for these amps??

I have cleaned the connections and looked everything over and I can't really figure out why this would be happening now.

Does someone have any suggestions?

BadDog

Does this happen right away or when they get hot? Do you have access to a DC ammeter that will measure the current up to around 40 amps? Have you checked the voltage to the head unit and the amp? Many head units send a PON signal to the amp. If the head unit drops out the amp will power off. If the head unit shares a ground with any gauges or other equipment and you have a bad ground it will not see a full 12v and drop out.

Andy Buzz

The first thing to do is to put a meter at the amplifier and test voltage with the stereo off and then with the amplifier cranking. Typically, low voltage will cause high amp temp due to higher current draw leading to a shutdown. I would also recommend switching the 450S into a 501bd. The 501 is far more efficient using less current to make more wattage.

If you need a deal on equipment or advice, feel free to call me at (813)882-8477.

Andy Buzz
Buzz-Off Alarm Systems
Maximum Audio

dstroyed

I shuts off right away then sub amp comes on just before the other amp comes back on. Then if you leave the volume there the sub amp will shut of again by itself. This is not a thremo shut down. I have that happen before.

I do have a meter if it still works. Have not used it about 8 years. I check some voltages and see if there is anything obvious up.

What troubles me as this used to not happen. Started last summer and I just did not take the time to fix it.

dstroyed

volt meter is broke can't get the voltage readings as needed.

I will check the ground.

Does the power supply from head unit to amp need to run much current. Years ago I was told by an installer that you do not want to use the head unit power supply itself for switching the amps on and off. We also used to use the power antenna lead before head units cam with power on leads. He said us a relay so the head unit only powers the relay that then uses power staight from the battery or other higher current output. Is this true or still true?

Andy send me a emial directly about the 501BD. It is my username @austin.rr.com.

tanned fat looks better

I'm no expert by any means and probably way off, but what about installing a couple of 2 millifaring (sp?) capacitors??

dstroyed

I was thinking / hoping that these amp weren't big enough to need them and the extra batteries would help too.

But it is a good question. I don't know the answer either.

I also forgot to mention that once I start the boat no more problems until I shut the engines down again.

speedemon29

Sounds like a voltage drop to me, seeing how your goinng to run about 15v running and 12 moored, if there is a 3v drop in the line, when your running they see 12v, moored they see 9v. if this is the case, Caps may help, but bigger wiring is probibly the better solution. I dont know how long your wires are, but that is likely your culprit.

dstroyed

I'm not sure if it the size of the wire. They are as big as a battery cable. But I agree that is sounds like a voltage drop. Still could be a wire.

He used Stinger wires and breaker and fuses. I would say less than 10 foot of wire from the batteries to the amps.

I pulled the head unit. All the connection look good. The power and ground connections are crimped and looks like some kind of silicone sealing them. Can't figure out if the unit is shareing a common ground with anything else. Don't have the special torx tool with a hole in the middle to get out the dash bolts and only one ground wire to the fuse box.

If I get some time this week. I'll try to see if I can get a hold of the installer and see if he will take a look at it. I don't want to start throwing parts at it until I know more.

Thanks for all the help I'll keep checking back if anyone has any more feed back.

JPD Motorsports

Test the batteries if they are the same ones, if it didn't do it 2 years ago and started to do it now might be time to change bats. Also check to make sure all the wires are tight at the batt connection. Feel of the ground wires as well to make sure they arent getting hot, he probably ran a 4 gauge kit fron the sounds of it which is thick enough, make sure all the connectors at the distribution blocks are tight as well, loose connection could do the same thing in clipping the amp.