Bulldog

A trick I learned from the guy that did my granite counter tops-
He cuts cheap Luan plywood into strips about 2 inches wide. These can be cut to length on site with scissors .
He places the strips along the perimeter and glues the strips together with a hot melt glue gun. This becomes a template, and results in a replacement piece that is exactly the size and shape it needs to be withoout any trial & error.

Epoxy does stick to polyester, polyester does not stick well to epoxy. There are vinylester primers made by duratech that take care of that problem.

merkruzer

I have a little delamination on the transom of a buddies boat. An area about 1 square foot kinda oval between the trim tab and drive. He was washing it and I heard a slight hollow sound tapped around and narrowed it down to the above mentioned area. We drilled a hole thru the gel in to the transom and felt where the outer layer of plywood had delaminated. What I dont understand is that the wood is not soft and rotten feeling. When poked with an awl it was hard as hell... Is it possible it just didnt bond well and separated, and is not rotted. I was thinking of drilling a hole up top also and pumping some resin in the bottom till is comes out the top.
Any input. The boat is a 98 falcon never left in the water longer than a weekend or a weeks vacation

Audiofn

Merkruzer yes you can do that. Just make sure it is solid. When you drill in you will know if the wood comes out wet. If you can find some way to clamp it so that you actually push the wood back together after you fill it up. This way you will add a minimum of resin and it will be stronger.

Jon

Lee

iTrader: (4)

Go to an auto parts store and buy a cheap grease gun and a couple of Zert fittings, screw the Zert fittings (use correct drill size and they will self tap) into the glass where you want to make the repair, fill the grease gun with resin and SLOWLY pump the resin in, Don't get carried away because you are basically applying hydraulic pressure between the glass and the core. Throw the grease gun away and remove the zert fittings after it has kicked, patch the small holes from the Zert fittings with some gel. Sounds a little far fetched but I have done this in the past and it worked like a champ.

merkruzer

thanks Ill try that, like i said it seems very dry, ill drill a hole at the lower part of the hollow area and check to see if it is damp. is there a moisture meter for this?

merkruzer

what is the best resin for this

Audiofn

Merkruzer yes there is a moisture meter for this. However they are expensive so unless you know some one that has one you can barrow the drill tech is going to tell you what you want to know. You can drill a number of holes if you need to they are easy to fill/patch, and give you piece of mind. Polyester resin is fine for this job just make sure you mix it correctly so that it does not harden to fast on ya. As has been said with the greas gun, it does work VERY well but you do have to be carefull as you can easily blow the transom apart. Make sure you have a bleed off hole up high and in the same "chamber" that you are filling. Good luck

Jon

master blaster

just finished '82 scarab from inside i cut glass around perimeter leaving 2" LIP to reglass to. made a tool that helped 1" wood chisel removed end cap and inserted 10" lag screw.it helped me get to bottom of center hump and remove rotten debris.a lot of miy transom came out with a spoon lucky me. cut pattern off back of transom with cardboard allowed for inside recess and cut 3/4 plywood to fit 2 sheets had to cut each of those in half at different intervals to slip it behind the center hump and 5200 it to glass and reglassed i have pictures before and after but not on digital wife lets me play w/boat but nothing else nothing!! took 4 long days to get soggy crap out i don't envy what you are about to do would be happy to share any thing that might help remember above all else ther is no can't only won't

laketahoe

I concur with formula 31 , I did my 302SR formula 3 years ago the same way very happy with the out come.

bryanspeedracer

I am mostly done with my project. Here is what I did...

I cut the inner glass at the hullsides and at the bottom of the hull bottom around the stringers. I then cut the stingers at a 45 degree angle ending at the transom. I cut the sringers for two reasons. One, I wanted to put the new plywood in as one piece. Second, I wanted to be sure that the wood in the stringers was not rotten.
Anyway, the old wood came out very easy. Most of it came out with my hands. The remainder I used a large wood chisel and cleaned the outer glass of all the old wood. I did the same thing with the inner glass, too.
When Fountain built the boat, they laid the hull up and installed the plywood as it was in the mold. After they pulled the mold, the deck was installed ie:shoebox. I decided to build my new transom higher, to tie into the deck. I did this because Fountain glasses the hull/deck joint all around the perimeter of the boat, but with the inner liner removed the joint was only rivited (not the most rigid).
I used cardboard from Charlotte Appliance (big fridge container) for my template. My new template would be about four inches higher than the original wood.
I was ready to cut my plywood.
I used marine grade plywood. I wasn't going to, but it is guaranteed to be "void free", plus the glue they use is much more durable.
I cut the new wood beveling the edges to fit the angle of the deck. I was going to laminate the two pieces of wood before putting it in the boat, in the end I installed it in stages.
I used West Systems epoxy for bonding. I found their product to very user friendly.
So, I used their epoxy and mixed per recommendations (get the pumps). After I wet the surfaces, I mixed a paste with their 404 powder glue. I put it on with a trowel, just like you were going to lay tile. I put the wood in place.
I made a clamping system using 2 by 4's and 2 by 6's. I cut 2 by 4's to fit inside of the boat that went to the hulsides ant the 2 by 6's extended beyond the hullsides. I through bolted the wood. I used three different clamping systems using the holes of the outdrives, exhaust, and k-planes. The bolt holes for the k-planes located the new wood.
I did this with each piece of wood and finally the inner glass. I used the thickened paste to fill voids and around edges (like mud for drywall).
I have to put glass mat around the edges for strength, to tie the new wood in. Then some finnish work and paint.
This is a job that anyone could do. It just takes some time. If anyone has questions please let me know. I have taken the last of the pics and I'll post 'em after the weekend.