Sea Ya

I use the "mercruiser kick".

MACDAD260

When I went to reinstall my motor this spring after pulling it for some work I could not get the "tool" to go in. I ended up having to make some 1/8" shims for the back and had to lower the front with the mounts. Last year when I put it in I thought the rear was a little on the low side but, I was able to adjust the mounts until the tool slid in with two fingers. I think the rubber in the rear mounts is sagged out. When all was done I was still able to install the drive all the way on with just a little wiggling and a one handed push. I would be worried if I heard a mechanic say he installed them all the time by whacking them with a 4x4.

cooltoys61

what bothers me is I have no rubber on any mounts. And I never removed the bellhousing on one motor. I'll see if I can borrow "the tool" but in my small town there is only one Merc dealer and he's a ----. I still wonder why the spring on the rear mount if it is only to be crushed,maybe if I back it off a little?Anyone?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Had the exact same problem with my 32' Fever last spring. Also have the offshore mounts. I left the 2 top bolts in, but finger tight, and removed the 2 lowers on each side. Motor was aligned perfect this way. Problem was that there was a gap between the offshore mount and the alum angle at the bottom bolt holes.Gap went from nothing at top bolt, to 3/16" at bottom bolt hole. If I installed the bottom bolt and tighened it, it would pull the mount tight, but only because it was lifting the rear of the motor up . With the top bolt installed finger tight, and motors aligned, I then measured the gap at both the middle and lower bolt locations and installed shims. Once the shims were installed and bolts tighened, everything was perfect. When Fountain installed the motors, they apparently installed the aluminum angle mounts not true with the offshore mounts. Bastards!
Only way they could have got my drives on was to leave the motor mount bolt loose, install drive, then tighen mount bolts. Again, Bastards! There was nothing wrong with the rear springs and fiber washers on mine.
BTW, better check you couplers. Both of mine were ruined with only 120 hrs because of this Fountain install. The holes were not worn in the stringers either, it was all pizz poor install!

Also, find a new mechanic. That guy apparently knows nothing.

cooltoys61

Thanks,I'll check that too. How do you tell if the coupler is bad?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

well for 1, if you have to use a 4x4 to install the drive.

a) if the alignment tool will not go in the coupler do to the splines being deformed
b) you can visually see that the splines now are sharp and pointed.

Might try loosening the lower bolts and backing off the upper a little and seeing if the rear of the motor does drop down. Or see if you can turn the spring washer be hand the way it is now. You should not be able to if the motor is resting on it.

cooltoys61

Is it ok for the spring in the washer to support the rear? Must be why it's there and I compressed it totally,is that right?

I can't imagine that one slide in,even with a 6x6 would damage any splines enough to matter. So when people refer to a ruined coupler they are talking about wallowed out(KY term)splines not failed rubber?

Also, can I use my drive as an aliegnment tool if my back can make more lifts and assume a good fit when it goes on with a little push?
Thanks

JPD Motorsports

Lube it and just jab awaysooner or later it will go. Oh wrong subject

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Personnally, I don't see how the rear of the motor can drop to low with the spring and washer in place. Unless chit is wearing really bad. I have never seen a problem with the rear mounts myself.

It's not that the one slide in may have ruined the coupler. It's that the alignment may been off. Yes, in your case we are talking about possibly worn splines, not the rubber. Did the drive take some work to get off? Should have just slide right off if all is good. Was there good grease on the splines or dried hardened grease?

No, you can not use the drive as alignment tool. Maybe if you had a spare input shaft, but not the complete assembled drive. You will have no feel for it. Plus you won't be able to get a grease reading since you are not locating on the coupler splines ID then.

A worn coupler can also be worn so that the drive will go on smooth because it is worn bigger. So just because a drive does slide on, does not mean it is aligned. You really need an alignment tool and to look at the splines at this point.

outlawinil

When you get alignment just right you can slide outdrive all the way on and you'll have to put a nut or two on to keep the drive from sliding off and falling on the floor.

"The local marine dude said he always has to beat them in with a 4x4(actually a very experienced shop)"

If it was my boat I'd use the 4x4 on the marine dude.