blue thunder

Looking for advise. Did some work over the winter to both engines and now have fired both and sea trialed. Both seem to run well. One though is showing some cream cheese under the breathers and fill caps. Other engine is fine. Do remember when running this engine initially on the hose having what sounded like a sticky exhaust valve that lasted a few seconds (popping out exhaust) then went away and never happened again.

The exhaust is brand new eickert headers, the heads where redone about 30 or 40 hrs ago and not removed during winter. I run closed cooling and am not loosing coolant. I have brand new EMI oil coolers and show no oil out exhaust.

Oil in engine looks good. Have sampled it and changed it both times no sign of emulsified oil. Have taken it out and run it hard once, oil temps to 230. Creamed cheese seems less, but I am still concerned. It is almost impossible to do a compression or leak test on the odd bank of this engine (side popping earlier) and cannot get the valve covers off due to exhaust. The question is, should I run it and see it it clears up or tear into it. I am reluctant to tear into it again as this is getting old!! Oil pressure is good.

Input?

BT

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I still had condensation on my last motor in the breather tubes even with hot oil and motor temps during normal operation. It was the idle back thru the marina to the ramp that was enough to cool the temps enough for condensation. Only a problem when the lake water was cool, spring and fall. Not your answer, but my situation.

paradigm shift

Yea I agree with US1. Without knowing more on water temps and oil temps a little milk in valve cover - breathers is pretty normal. I am a believer in the use of PCV valves for this very purpose. Works better than just a breather hose to the air cleaner. Just my opinion.

blue thunder

Thank for the input. Water temp is 180f and oil temps got as high as 240 is a short run. During that run I cruised about 10 minutes to get the oil over 200f then a WOT blast that got oil up over 230. Where would one plumb a PCV valve for vacuum source? Intake manifold? I am running 800 holleys and no place on carb to plumb into.

BT

blue thunder

TTT - Problem persist even after dropping a valve in this engine, rebuilding with new rotating assem. bored, magnafluxed block, 1 new head, all new valves, pressure tested everything twice. Am going to replace one header on the side that dropped the valve. Run closed cooling and pressure testing the coolant system showed nothing. Planning to install a pcv valve and plumb to a fitting in the 1" spacer under the carb. Any other ideas? I am stumped!! The problem seems to be getting worse.

BT

mopower

Ah the joys of boating Tomrrow I'm changing my P/S cooler (with twins ) and not looking forward to it.

aero-offshore

I remember all cars in the day 50s- 60s having this problem, the condensation went away after the mandating of PCV valves, not sure but probably you problem. I also remember Pennsoil oil made it worse.

cooltoys61

My 800's have a pipe plug that could be removed and work for plumbing the pvc.

sonic28

yup yeast infection! in a woman bad in a motor thats worse

blue thunder

Is that pipe plug before or after the carbs in the induction system? I am worried about leaning out the engine by putting the vacuum source connection under the carb or in the intake. Thats seems like it would be creating a huge vacuum leak. What do you guys think?

Q: Why is emulsified oil better than a yeast infection? A: The oil washes off your body parts without leaving the malodorous tuna spell behind....

BT