THRILLSEEKER

fine adjustments on TRs drive alignment are made with the 2 tailstock bolts by adding or subtracting pressure to the spring that is sandwiched between the tailstock and inner transom plate correct??


I went bilge fishing today with a magnet and found a washer and nut from one of theese bolts and checked and a few others are loose......any idea what needs to be done here or why theese would loosten up??

David

FALSE! Front of engine goes up or down. 2 bolts at gimbal mount w/double wound lockwashers that are actually "spacers" should be tight. Stick the "dickshaft" in the trans, and raise or lower front of engine till round disk slips into bell housing counterbore and lays flat against it.

THRILLSEEKER

ummm.....with my steel plate offshore mounts the only adjustment I have int the front of the motor is in 2 inch increments and I know that 2 inches higher or lower would put theese things way off center. last year when I took the motors out, I put them back in exactly the same as they came out, and when I tightened down the 2 tailstock bolts the carrier bearing "hole" was way low in the gimbal.

David

Merc suggests the method I outlined. With offshore (one piece)front mounts, the procedure is still the same. You may have to redrill the plate or angles, if used, at the front. The torque spec on the 2 rear bolts is 100 ft. lbs. If alignment is not correct, then you must raise or lower front to get it right. Edit: with note: Fiber washers are not load bearing. Their purpose is to prevent metal to metal contact if the engine actually torques over enough to shift the rubber bushings in the tailstock, or if they fail.

p4-33

I've got the same setup, offshore mounts in front, TRS tailstock mounts in the rear.

Are you SURE you had good alignment before the motor came out? There's not much room for adjustment with this setup, as you have found out. If you are using the same holes in the front mounts, the only other possibility might be your spacer is missing between the tailstock "ears" and the gimbal mount.

From the top, you should have a bolt head, then a washer, then tailstock itself, then a felt washer/spacer/felt washer with the spring floating inside, then the gimbal mount, followed by a washer and the nut. I put a 15/16" box on the bottom, an air hammer on the bolt head and hammer away so nothing turns anymore. 100ft lbs? maybe.

The only way to raise the bearing carrier looking at it thru the outside of the gimbal opening is to lower the front of the motor.

What's "way low"? Have you tried to install the drive? How did that go?

Brian

THRILLSEEKER

It was last spring , so I really cant remember all that well if I had all the necesarry parts in the right places, but it was low enough to the point that the drive wouldnt go all the way on without forcing it.....I am willing to bet that there are some pieces missling in there, I should probably pull the drives off and check again to be certain.

THRILLSEEKER

the so called spacer that you mentioned...is that the rubber drawing number 11 in the below link?


http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...EMBLY+%28TR%29

David

#11 is the rubber bushing/mount that is pressed in the tailstock. #31 is the double wound lockwasher/spacer. I will dig out my TRS service book, and scan in the page showing proper assembly.

David

pic from engine installation manual, #9, big block GM/TRS.

phughes69

I followed Brian's stack up but need to clairify if I have it right.
The way I assembled it was this from top down:
Bolt/ head of bolt
steel washer
trans rubber mount
fiber washer
Thackery spring inside of the large steel washer
fiber washer
transom mount
Nylock nut

The part I am confused about is if there should be 1 or 2 fiber washers between the trans mount and the tailstock?
I used this picture and Brians post as a reference.