what engine oil to use?
06-13-2004, 09:58 AM
#1
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what engine oil to use?
what differences are there in engine oils? I have a 1989 Formula 357sr1 with 420hp 454s, 400 hours freshwater only extra clean inside and out...the spec says SAE 40, but what about using 20w-50 instead for extra protection, is the 20-50 a beeter choice for a motor with this many hours an it or should I stick to the straight weight? Please advise
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06-13-2004, 12:17 PM
#3
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Re: what engine oil to use?
I noticed a boating friend of mine went to buy some fresh supplies at a mercury dealer to get his boat ready for summer...his boat is a single 350 powered 22 foot cruiser, this bost was spec for SAE 30 and the merc dealer gave him 25w-40 MERCURY oil to run and told him this was the new oil for his boat a 1987 model. I was wondering about the GT Turbo 20w-50 to use in place of the SAE 40...would there be any benefits from the multi weight?
06-13-2004, 01:00 PM
#4
Re: what engine oil to use?
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/howt...20010101ov.htm
I think this also answers a lot of concerns and questions that have been around for a while with others as well.
"The difference between a multigrade and a singlegrade oil: The singlegrade can't pass the low temperature viscosity test. If it did meet one of the following "W" viscosities, it would be a multigrade".
Highs and Lows
"Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil".
That's one of the reasons I like a synthetic oil in that a lower viscosity synthetic protects as good as some higher viscosity conventional oils. Better circulation results in lower pressure, more oil volume circulating, less heat and better protection. Europeans use 0w40 in 500 HP AMG Mercedes Benz's and 500HP Vipers come with 10w30 Mobil-1 from the factory. Porsche recommends a 0w40 in it's twin turbo and believe me Porsche runs numerous tests on oils before they fill! I believe all German cars are fully synthetic now in lower viscosities and extended drains too. We have been a little slower to catch on in the US for some reason. Volvo-Penta is fine with synthetics I understand. Eventually data will be availble from marine tests and don't be surprised to see a manufacturer's recommendation for a synthetic 10w40 in a marine application replace 25w40's. It's called evolution. In a synthetic the film strength supercedes viscosity in pecking order. Also the research I did on ols containing moly like Redline and Royal Purple show that in addition to high temeprature management they have the added benefit of controlling shear down as well. Those oils have the best of both worlds in terms of protection. I have used Mobil-1 10w40 in my 350 Merc Magnums and believe me it works just fine. Amsoil was fine too at 15w 40. The pressure is lower even with a much more efficient Mobil-1 filter and temps are not affected. I am switching to RP or Redline because they seem to offer more shear protection in the lower viscosities than any of the others. I am fine with 10w40 RP or Redline now. Lower viscosity premium synthetic oils pay for themselves in decreased fuel consumption as well.
As always use what you like best!
I think this also answers a lot of concerns and questions that have been around for a while with others as well.
"The difference between a multigrade and a singlegrade oil: The singlegrade can't pass the low temperature viscosity test. If it did meet one of the following "W" viscosities, it would be a multigrade".
Highs and Lows
"Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil".
That's one of the reasons I like a synthetic oil in that a lower viscosity synthetic protects as good as some higher viscosity conventional oils. Better circulation results in lower pressure, more oil volume circulating, less heat and better protection. Europeans use 0w40 in 500 HP AMG Mercedes Benz's and 500HP Vipers come with 10w30 Mobil-1 from the factory. Porsche recommends a 0w40 in it's twin turbo and believe me Porsche runs numerous tests on oils before they fill! I believe all German cars are fully synthetic now in lower viscosities and extended drains too. We have been a little slower to catch on in the US for some reason. Volvo-Penta is fine with synthetics I understand. Eventually data will be availble from marine tests and don't be surprised to see a manufacturer's recommendation for a synthetic 10w40 in a marine application replace 25w40's. It's called evolution. In a synthetic the film strength supercedes viscosity in pecking order. Also the research I did on ols containing moly like Redline and Royal Purple show that in addition to high temeprature management they have the added benefit of controlling shear down as well. Those oils have the best of both worlds in terms of protection. I have used Mobil-1 10w40 in my 350 Merc Magnums and believe me it works just fine. Amsoil was fine too at 15w 40. The pressure is lower even with a much more efficient Mobil-1 filter and temps are not affected. I am switching to RP or Redline because they seem to offer more shear protection in the lower viscosities than any of the others. I am fine with 10w40 RP or Redline now. Lower viscosity premium synthetic oils pay for themselves in decreased fuel consumption as well.
As always use what you like best!
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 06-13-2004 at 02:46 PM.
06-13-2004, 02:55 PM
#5
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Re: what engine oil to use?
well thats alot said, but...I am using Amalie 20w-50 GT Turbo this year...I've put 21 hours on the motors in the 6 times I've been out so far...oil pressure is consistant throughout the rpm range....almost 60 at 5000 rpm, slightly less at lower rpms, to about 25 at idle when hot, about 130 degrees (the water temp is still cold here in the New England area) The oil looks good, feels good, and hasnt used a drop since I changed it in april. I dont have an oil temp gauge so I cant tell you what the oil temp is, only the engine temps. Do you think using this product will be OK, or what?
06-13-2004, 03:25 PM
#6
Re: what engine oil to use?
I know Amalie which is out of Texas I think is into the drag racing circuits and makes a complete line of conventionals and synthetics too. I don't have any test data on their oils but they seem to be in it for the long haul. Mercury is supposedly using a 20w50 synthetic in their 1050's. A 20w50 conventional should be in the "ballpark" I would imagine for a 454. The "20W" (20W is measured at -10 degrees C) will flow better than the straight 40 WT you were using at lower temps and the "50" will be there for extreme temps. This appears to be a premium conventional and my best guess is that you will be fine with this choice if it is your preference.
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 06-13-2004 at 03:44 PM.
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