BAD-HABIT

I have heard lots of stories of problems switching from Dino to synthetic in motors. Mostly about oil leaks..But what about switching from Synthetic to Dino? I plan on doing an oil change soon and will do an oil analyisis. I would like to run Dino oil and do the same. I think I am on the verge of needing an oil cooler and really like the fact the synthetic can handle such higher temps. Since I installed my remote oil filter kit my oil pressure after running is what I consider borderline. I assume this is from heat. I don't have a oil temp guage and for the time being this is out of the question. I am running Mobil 1 15-50 and would like to run Kendall st 40wt. And see how it holds up...As it stands now after running for awhile I am getting about 20-25lbs @ idle and 50-55lbs @5300rpms. At startup I am getting 40lbs @ idle and 65lbs @ 5300rpms. I am concerned with the top end pressure. I think the st 40wt will help this but I am concerned that the seals may not like swithing over to dino. Motor has about 100hours on it now. I belive Deniss Moore stated the quality of oil was not as important with a roller motor as long as the interval of changes was kept up.. So does anyone see any problems switching to dino for a while?

BH

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

B.H.-"since i installed my remote filter kit my oil press------borderline". Your remote filter kit didn't create heat,instead i would be suspicious that it added restrictions to your flow path. I have personaly experienced this,my local performance boat center did the original install of my procharger on my 502,i had gotten the motor from them after they pulled it and did my own rebuild and returned it to them as a long block,they installed procharger along with rerouting the oil lines w/various stock fittings and adapters and some t&d brand oil lines from summit racing. The boat had borderline oil pressure (20lbs at idle hot/45 lbs wot). I questioned this DISMAL pressure with the guy who runs the place,of course he blamed it on me assembling motor(i have built over 75 motors-i run a local automotive business)so i looked further-pulled several lines off,found all kinds of restrictions-ton's of 90 deg fittings,adapters with i.d's as small as .380. I ripped every bit of it off boat,redid all of it myself with -12 an fittings and full flow ends,made my lines as short as possible,billet adapters etc and guess what-I GAINED 15-20 psi of oil presure acrossed the board! NO,hi flow fittings can't "create oil pressure" but yes,restrictions can sure diminish what you have reaching the oil galleys. If you don't have a oil cooler,you should definately install one too.

BAD-HABIT

The remote oil filter kit dropped oil pressure probally 10lbs. The kit is All Mercruiser

BH

Hydrocruiser

The reason for the oil leak problems when going synthetic is possibly one of two things:

1.) The synthetics have more detergency and wash away the "scum" that was being used to form a seal.

2.) Synthetics have greater pour-ability, if the seals were questionable it could precipitate a leak.

Leaks are rare if you begin with synthetics and keep using them.

I read where you can go from a conventional to a synthetic usually without concerns but they did not suggest going back from the synthetic to a conventional. I don't have the rational just what I read. Http://www.Bobistheoilguy.com for more info.

Iggy

Hydrocruiser is correct. Except for going back to dino oil. I doubt you'd have any trouble. To be sure I'd change the oil again after a short period to flush out any remaining synthetic.

The first time I switched to Mobil1 from dino I found many leaks I didn't know I had. What happens is the synthetic does act as a solvent and breaks down the dried deposits and varnish left behind by the dino oil. Any small leaks that were plugged by those deposits are reopened. That's why you don't switch to synthetic in a high mileage engine.