fund razor

STBH

Spontaneous Temporary Boat Healing.

Went down to the boat for the first time in 3 days.

Damn thing wouldn't act up. Shifted it 10 times in both directions stopping at N.

I know it aint magic, and something is still up, but since I still have "brakes" I'm gonna take her out and see what happens.

Liberator21

It sounds to me like you have an adjustment problem. Especially if it's working fine now. Did you do the checks of the control box, and bellcrank? If your clutch dogs were bad, you'd know it. Pulling the drive is cake. Yes it's heavy, so I would recommend having someone help you. The only proper way to adjust the cable is with the drive off. A fixture mounts on the back, and holds the shift arm in position so you can adjust the cable. You also have to make sure the small screw holding the small arm to the shaft where the shift arm is, is nice and tight or else there will be slop in that setup. I've pulled those drives, adjusted the cable, and had the drive back on in less than an hour. It's actually quite easy.

fund razor

Hey Liberator...

Your posts kick azz. Thanks.

The bad news is I took the boat out yesterday and lost fwd completely on the SB side. I damn near got stuck in the channel. Heading into the dock my Port stalled, and then SB wouldn't go into fwd (at all) just a light spinning (more rubbing than grinding) sound. So there I was with rev only on one side.

Good thing I'm strong and have a long boat hook.

I'm going to crash land it into the hoist tomorrow and take it home and pull the drive.
I've resigned myself to the fact that my season may be over, but who knows.

Thanks again for the post.

Question: after you pull the drive, how do you know that your adjustment "worked" so to speak? Do you have to put the drive back on to see how it really will act?

Liberator21

I would recommend you borrow the fixture that holds the shift arm in position while you do the cable adjustment. Otherwise you’ll need two people to do the job (unless you like jumping in and out of the boat a lot). Also, while you have the drive off it won’t hurt to remove the shift arm and lever from the gimbal housing to clean it and re-grease it. The only way to check if the adjustment worked is to put the drive back on. Once it’s on, you can check for engagement by shifting it into gear (with the engine off), and trying to spin the prop. Of course, the only real test is on the water. While the drive is off, you should check the shift rod adjustment. There is a spec for it in the book. Once the drive is off, you’ll see the shift rod sticking up from the lower section of the drive. Things aren’t sounding too good over there. I hope your clutch dogs aren’t shot. They’re not cheap.
If you need a copy of the adjustment procedure, I can try and scan the sheets that came with the cable kit, and email it to you.

fund razor

Thanks Lib.

There's a guy I can call about the tool. Hopefully he's got it. Sounds like I need another guy anyway. I always did my own alpha, but I'm getting old and I know that the Cobra is a heavy slug.

If I have the old cable on that side (I think I do) I am going to get the kit.

The Port cable was replaced in June by a certified mech.

Liberator21

I spoke with my friend last night (OMC Mechanic 20+ Years), he said yes it's possible you have bad clutch dogs, but first change the cable. He says most of the problems he sees are from bad cables, and he won't condem the drive till the cable is replaced. Also, if the cable is at fault, and you don't replace it, you can be sure you'll be doing clutch dogs! I did my cable at the beginning of the season. I breezed through it in about an hour, it's not hard. While your in there, check the gimbal bearing and seal. That's the time to change it. If you do change the bearing, make sure the grease hole in the outer race faces starbord to line up with the grease fitting. Let me know how you make out.
Paul

fund razor

Hey Paul,

I was really frustrated, (read: angry) from all the problems I've had this year with two boats, and I couldn't get the boat home this time, so I took it to a local OMC mechanic at a Chris Craft dealership. He did my transom assy work back in June, and did a coupler and the shift cable on the port while he had the boat.

He's gonna start with the cable and go from there, just like your friend said.

It's gonna cost me extra time and money to have it done, but I have spent most of my time since spring as an unpaid marine mechanic.

Liberator21

That was my season last year! I thought I would have my engine done, and in the boat by spring, but with all the setbacks I got it in the water just in time for labor day weekend. This year I planned to just use it, enjoy it and do no work (unless something broke). I ended up doing a shift cable in the spring (before the boat went in), and an anti-siphon valve a couple of weeks ago. Luckily they were both quick and inexpensive jobs. I've been boating for over 25 years (I'm not that old!), and sometimes you get a bad season. You just deal with it, and look forward to next year.

fund razor

Yep I know...

I've been in it about 20 years myself. I wouldn't own a boat if I didn't actually enjoy working on them... part of the deal. I've done repowers, all kind of things...But this year has been insane.

I could list everything but I don't want to think about it!

fund razor

It was the recalled cable that was the problem. Maybe picking the boat up today. Whoo-hoo.