Last Oil change for the season ....
09-18-2004, 10:20 PM
#11
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lewis Center, Ohio
Posts: 3,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Dont want to change the filters in the spring? They are what, 8 dollars?
And find indoor storage rather than shrink wrapping.
And find indoor storage rather than shrink wrapping.
09-18-2004, 10:58 PM
#12
VIP Member
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
Just a habit I got into.
-Gas stabilizer added and the tanks filled and go out for a last 1/2 hour run.
-I use a flusher with a tank and run 6 gallons of antifreeze into the engines via the drive's pick-ups. First I warm the engines to open the stats then the anti-freeze. Keeps the impeller in good shape and avoids rust. I add a can of anti-corrosion fluid to the solution.
-Then fog really well with Merc's product.
-Then I drain the oil and pull off the old oil filters and gasoline filters and put on new oil and gas filters. Probably will add oil now that I am using Mobil-1 20W-50 but not run the engine with the new oil in there. Keep the oil filters dry and new.
-Pull out the batteries.
-Change drive fluid.
Cover with a large plastic tarp or shrink and store indoors. Always stored on a rack. Adds years to a boats finish and prevents blistering.
-Spray outdrive and prop with a protectant film they use to store aircraft parts.
Next season:
-Check or add oil.
-Add fogging oil to the carb while starting.
Never a problem with an engine or outdrive in over 10 yrs.
I aint saying to do this ; this is just my own ritual.
-Gas stabilizer added and the tanks filled and go out for a last 1/2 hour run.
-I use a flusher with a tank and run 6 gallons of antifreeze into the engines via the drive's pick-ups. First I warm the engines to open the stats then the anti-freeze. Keeps the impeller in good shape and avoids rust. I add a can of anti-corrosion fluid to the solution.
-Then fog really well with Merc's product.
-Then I drain the oil and pull off the old oil filters and gasoline filters and put on new oil and gas filters. Probably will add oil now that I am using Mobil-1 20W-50 but not run the engine with the new oil in there. Keep the oil filters dry and new.
-Pull out the batteries.
-Change drive fluid.
Cover with a large plastic tarp or shrink and store indoors. Always stored on a rack. Adds years to a boats finish and prevents blistering.
-Spray outdrive and prop with a protectant film they use to store aircraft parts.
Next season:
-Check or add oil.
-Add fogging oil to the carb while starting.
Never a problem with an engine or outdrive in over 10 yrs.
I aint saying to do this ; this is just my own ritual.
Hydrocruiser why do you crank the motor with fogging oil????
__________________
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
09-18-2004, 11:19 PM
#13
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Originally Posted by Lmarth
Rob--interesting pictures. I expected a little nit picking on my post from people like myself that might leave an old car sit outside all winter without starting it. Seems we never have a problem with them. As your pictures show, water/condensation can be insidious. It doesn't take a lot to cause problems. Maybe overkill with a fuel system that has fuel/water separators, but a few weeks ago with the season winding down, I put about six bottles of "dry gas" in the tank to break up any water that may have accumulated in fuel bowls,etc. Half empty aluminum fuel tanks also "sweat" which doesn't help.I'm sure some of this is overkill,but it doesn't take a lot to mess up those nice smooth cylinder walls. Care to share with us what the plans are for the motor upgrade? Lou
I am going thru them just to see what going on because someone else has been in them . It will make me feel better knowing whats been done.
Other than all refreshing every thing and re machine every. To make sure every thing is right . Up grade rings ,oil pump, changing cam,bigger , tappets springs ,titanium retainers . throttle body,redo ecm,dyno and tune ecm on the dyno.
Maybe up grade to aluminum heads.I have a bud that will sell me the darts at WD,but I do not know which ones to go with . there like opinions everybody has a different one . the flow #,s game every body has different ways to measure it
When you look at the bad boys drag racing they run the dart 360's in the standard big block configuration. or the dart pro 1,s CNC ed for about 2300 complete WD 
I have a buddy thats a pro charger dealer that will let me have them at cost,but I would rather have the Whipple's ,but at over 2500.oo difference its a hard one??
When I do the build up and dyno I will share the #'s. Do a how to for every body.
I have a 528hp 350 pump gas street motor build up in the Chevelle I can share
Rob
__________________
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
09-19-2004, 03:47 AM
#14
Gold Member
Gold MemberJoin Date: Oct 2002
Location: Fairport,NY
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Rob- Always a good idea to baseline to avoid surprises. There's no substitute for dyno tuning, especially when adding Whipples/Pro Chargers. As for the heads, my sense is that we have to unlearn our automotive experience and remember we're using marine cams, low rpm's, broad torque curves,etc. I recall your posting pictures of your drag car. I was impressed with the way all the wiring/plumbing was connected and setup on the dash and interior.Got a friend with a late model LS-6 that's pulling around 518hp.Long story but all the latest thermal barriers, many pulls on the dyno in Detroit at a location I'd prefer not to get into. We all will be looking forward to hearing about your project and seeing the pictures. It's going to be a long winter. Lou
09-19-2004, 08:42 AM
#15
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ballston Spa, New York
Posts: 524
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
7 Posts
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Originally Posted by splashandburn
I am getting ready to change my oil for the final time this season and I have 2 questions:
1) I've read that I should change the oil now and then again in the Spring to remove any moisture that has accumulated over the Winter. Should I change the FILTER now and then again in the Spring too?
2) I have run Mobil 1 synthetic all season - do I need to put M1 back in for the Winter or can I just use a standard straight 30W oil and then go back to M1 once I'm ready to run again in the Spring?
Thanks for the help.
1) I've read that I should change the oil now and then again in the Spring to remove any moisture that has accumulated over the Winter. Should I change the FILTER now and then again in the Spring too?
2) I have run Mobil 1 synthetic all season - do I need to put M1 back in for the Winter or can I just use a standard straight 30W oil and then go back to M1 once I'm ready to run again in the Spring?
Thanks for the help.
So - back to my original question - any one able to give me an answer on whether or not to change the filter now and again in the spring and how about using 30W oil now and then back to M1 in the spring?
09-19-2004, 09:04 AM
#16
Gold Member
Gold MemberJoin Date: Oct 2002
Location: Fairport,NY
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Everyone I know changes all the fluids/filters before layup with the fluids they'll run next spring. No need to change the oil filter twice. Just one person's opinion.
09-19-2004, 12:57 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Lou,
Thanks for the answer- makes sense on the oil, and am already a firm believer in fogging the motor especially in saltwater uses...
Splash,
Sounds like change the oil both times to be safe, but filters only once. I would not mix synthetic and fossil oils.. might save $50 now but who knows how much later...
Thanks for the answer- makes sense on the oil, and am already a firm believer in fogging the motor especially in saltwater uses...
Splash,
Sounds like change the oil both times to be safe, but filters only once. I would not mix synthetic and fossil oils.. might save $50 now but who knows how much later...
09-19-2004, 08:37 PM
#19
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ballston Spa, New York
Posts: 524
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
7 Posts
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Originally Posted by OTIS311
Craig, You planning on coming up to the Lake on Columbus day weekend and doing the Poker Run with us ??
Bob
Bob
Bob,
I would love to do this run but I think I will need to have my boat into storage by then. I lost the inside storage that I always used so it looks like I may need to store at the fairgrounds unless I can find something else quick.
09-20-2004, 06:59 AM
#20
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 4,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Last Oil change for the season ....
Change engine and O.D. oil once in the fall and run them in the spring,, no need to waste 9 quarts of oil in the spring.
But, since I used to have a carbbed motor and ran marvel throuh the carb to fog, how do you fog an EFI, I have heard you can take off the fuel filter and fill it half way with foggin oil put it back on and then start it back up.. ??
But, since I used to have a carbbed motor and ran marvel throuh the carb to fog, how do you fog an EFI, I have heard you can take off the fuel filter and fill it half way with foggin oil put it back on and then start it back up.. ??
