Fuel sender/fuel tank ground?

[JGB]

'85 Cig 20. I replaced the fuel sender but there wasn't a black ground wire available to ground the sender. I reached in to feel around for a loose ground wire to connect but couldn't find any loose wires. I did notice the sending wire was running together with a thicker black wire( which was firmly connected to something on either end. I am wondering if the thick black wire grounds the entire fuel tank and thus eliminates the need to ground on the fuel sender's grounding jack? (because there is a staple in the fuel sender gasket that allows for metal to metal contact between the tank and the sender) Any ideas whether I still need to ground the fuel sender what is the best way to run the wire to ground it? Seems as though the fuel tank area is totally enclosed.

Thanks for any help.

Jim


BTW, I'm getting real close to be able to splash her. But would like to put myself at ease a bit by getting this ground issue resolved.

[Wobble]

I would highly recommend a ground for the sender and the tank, you should be able to determine if the wire you are looking at is a ground by using continuity tester.

Mark

[JGB]

Thanks Mark, but I don't have a "continuity"tester and even if I did I can't reach the end connectors of the black wire in the fuel tank bay.


Jim

[fund razor]

It's surprising that the sender isn't grounded. I would try to find a way to "fish" a wire from a point of good ground to the top of the sender.

Maybe you can "cut and butt" that black wire to first check it and second tie into it. You can get a cheap tester at sears or radio shack.
There is usually also a ground between the block and the tank.

If the old sender didn't have a ground attached, it must have been getting a ground from the tank. Had to be getting a ground somewhere to create the resistance loop.

Usually above the tank is an easier area to fish a wire than many other places. Either from the engine compartment or from deck access.
Once I had to cut an access to properly replace a sender. It isn't so bad. In the end it looks fine, and I have a deck hatch there now. 5 bucks at West Marine. (And careful cutting only after drilling a pilot hole.)

[Wobble]

Originally Posted by JGB

Thanks Mark, but I don't have a "continuity"tester and even if I did I can't reach the end connectors of the black wire in the fuel tank bay.


Jim

Jim it sounds like u need to run a new ground, there should be a way to fish a wire down there either next to fuel fill hose or vent or fuel line to engine. I borrowed a very thin fiberglass rod from a cable installer called a glow-rod and ran a new ground from behind my dash down next to my fuel tank vent line to sender and tank.

Mark

[JGB]

Ok, Thanks a lot guys, Looks like I have to fish a new ground wire to the sender.

[JGB]

fund razor, "If the old sender didn't have a ground attached, it must have been getting a ground from the tank. Had to be getting a ground somewhere to create the resistance loop"

The old sender did not have a ground wire attached to it and it functioned properly. Seems like doing some preventative maintenance has turned into a Pain in the azz.

Jim

[JGB]

Ok, so I fished a ground wire through the rear of the fuel tank bay and have an opportunity to ground it directly to the negative terminal on the battery. Would this work? or is there a better way?

Thanks,

almost done

[JGB]

Now, If i can connect the ground wire to the neg battery terminal, I am ready to test the wiring for the new guages and stereo. If all goes well, I'll run the engine tomorrow, installing the windshield and new interior and should be ready to splash at the lates some time next week.

Jim

[Wobble]

Originally Posted by JGB

Ok, so I fished a ground wire through the rear of the fuel tank bay and have an opportunity to ground it directly to the negative terminal on the battery. Would this work? or is there a better way?

Thanks,

almost done

Battery is fine as is engine block, whatever works out neatest.

Mark