No Oil Pressure after oil change to Synthetic?

[TwoKs]

Just a thought. What if what ever leak was pushing water into your oil while running [oil cooler?] got bigger and now oil pump pressure is greater than water pressure. Check water passages and block to see if oil is into cooling systen now instead. Your pump might be pumping oil to path of least resistance and not building pressure. Or your oil pump releaf is stuck open

[KNOT-RIGHT]

When your spinning the oil pump with the drill are you using a priming tool
or old distributer cut. If not you will get a major internal oil leak.
Just a guess

[otis311]

Does it knock w/o the oil pressure. Im just thinking something might have happened to the sending unit ??

[Wobble]

Check for oil prssure with mechanical guage first. If no pressure then it is time for a deeper look.

Mark

[cooltoys61]

Also keep in mind that with Hyd lifters they would rattle like hell with no pressure,,I'm betting on sending unit too.

[Reed Jensen]

Originally Posted by caveman

When your spinning the oil pump with the drill are you using a priming tool
or old distributer cut. If not you will get a major internal oil leak.
Just a guess

That's one thought... if the pre-oiler isn't made to fill the space of the distributor... the oil just flows back into the sump in that area instead of feeding the lifters and pressurizing the system.... hmmmmm... but I think he had oil pressure issues before he removed the distributor.

[Reed Jensen]

Originally Posted by cooltoys61

Also keep in mind that with Hyd lifters they would rattle like hell with no pressure,,I'm betting on sending unit too.

He took the sending unit out and put a mechanical gauge in ... still no pressure.......

[FlyFast]

I have heard of this before. It was from my old neighbor who used to work at the gm proving grounds in phoenix. He recommended against a synthetic oil in my boat for this reason. I don't know how mobil 1 reacts with water. Synthetics rely on additives and those additives may be affected by water. My neighbor at gm said that synthetics will gel when mixed with the new type of anti freeze.

I think you are on the right track to flush the engine and then refill with the castrol. Years ago I would flush my motor with part kerosene and part oil crank it over drain and the refill with oil. the oil would stay clean longer.

good luck mike

[mleslie951]

All,

I did use a primimg tool.

Here is the latest. I pulled the oil cooler yesterday. It is POST oil filter. Once I disconnected the lines and let in drain, it was draining the milkshake color oil that I had when I first started this project. This would seem to me that there is no oil flowing through the oil cooler. My line to the oil cooler is clear as well as the the return line back to the block from the oil cooler. I can actually blow air into the return lines and hear a gurgling? sound to indicate something is flowing there. I will try and blow air through the oil cooler (oil line). I am also going to take it too a radiator shop and have them acid flush the inside to dissolve any possible blockages. If all else fails, I will replace the cooler. I will keep you guys posted. After seeing the color oil in the cooler, I have hopes that this is my blockage problem. I am learning something new everyday.

All, thanks for the help.

[mleslie951]

formulaz583,

Never thought of placing an oil filter in place of the adapter!

Question on the oil cooler. What does the inside of the cooler look like in terms of oil flow. I took an airhose and blew all of the old milkshake oil out. I poured new oil in one of the inlets and airhosed it out again to flush. The oil does not run like water here for the obvious reason however, I can pour oil in one end and it does not run out by itself on the other end with it tipped downward. I have to blow the oil out with air from the opposite end. Does this sound right?

Thanks Mike