NOBODY

Have seen many jet and v drive boats with water injected headers running stupid big cams with massive dur. Take the motor apart and see that water is present in the exhaust and they still go all season with no probs. All these guys run good valves and seats. The water is usually injected at the bottom of the header. A lot of guys don't run those style headers anymore but you see my point.

Vinny P

112* lobe seperation is on the tight side. I would say that you will have a problem with stock exhaust. You should do something to correct this problem before it costs you a motor. You have to dump the water into the exhaust as far back as possible, by whatever means works for you and your budget.

NOBODY

I agree with everyone about having to dump the water as far away from the valve as possible with big camshafts and tight LS. I just think the revision problem gets alot of hype and it actually takes a while for you to have problems with the motor, unless you have a cracked manifold and when you shut the motor off the water drain's into an open valve. I just see people having motor probs and revision is the first thing that gets blamed for the motor failure.

I built a set of 383 small chevys with
510 510 lift
228 228 @ .050
284 284 ad.
108 LS
for a Formula 5 years ago. It had dart 200cc heads with Inconel exaust valves. I told him he would have to get headers or different manifolds for the rev. probs. and he said he couldn't afford that at the time. I told him I would not warr. the motors if they dropped a valve, but would warr. the lower end. Like I said that was 5 seasons ago. Winterize the motors every year with no probs yet. (stock manifolds) This is the only motors I have built that didn't have headers.

Been around boat motors all my life am still waiting to see a motor failure from rev.

ThunderChris

I have a pair of Merc/Gil manifolds that would probably work for your motor.They are dry exhaust so you probably wouldnt have to worry about reversion.I would let the whole system go for $ 1300.00. That would include the manifolds, ss risers, Gil mufflers,air pump,actuators,lines.E-mail me at [email protected] if your interested.Chris

50boat

those gills will du the trick ,, iam running hyd cam 646 lift -264duration-- 1.8 rockers, then cut the weild at the riser , cut the inner and outerpipe, added 14in. driled3 half in holes at the bottem 1 in from the end of pipe works grate

BOATING ON A BUDGET

Hey thanks for all of the knowledge.
I think this site is great.
I will look into buying a new set of risers and dumping the water at the rear part of the tail pipe.
I am wondering if i can get away for a few months with just using the newer riser?
Or should i find the new manifolds also?
Do all risers have the same flange and bolt pattern?

Tom

Reed Jensen

I've seen exhaust valves with cracks from reversion. That was years ago before some of the newer alloy valves came onto the market.

ThunderChris

Tom,
Did you get my email along with the photos. If not, let me know and I'll resend them over. Chris