Manual Bilge Pump

[p4-33]

Need some direction on this... Where does the pump handle need to be located? In the engine compartment? In the cockpit? What are specs on GPM/GPH? These are French to me.

Also, does anyone have a source for one that APBA inspectors approve of? Better yet, offer one up for sale?

Thanks again,
Brian

[TYPHOON]

Ours in in the motor compartment.Simple hand pump that manualy removes water incase of loss of 12 volts.Try guaffrig or Team Marine or Eddies.I have used mine several times and was glad to have it.
Randy

[p4-33]

Roger

[Ryan Beckley]

you can use the hand hled ones too, the one that looki like a bicycle tire pump with a hose. Thye have them at any boat store.

[Dredgeking]

i had one made by RULE. nice setup and made to mount to a wall.

[p4-33]

Hello again,

I've located a couple of models by Whale Gusher. The first is the Titan model, bulkhead mount, non-corrosive plastic and stainless steel construction, 26 GPM pumping at 70 strokes/min. Under $100.

The other is the Gusher 10 Mk3, bulkhead mount, diecast alloy, 22.5 GPM. This one has less capacity, but built out of stronger components. Reviews caution about it's tendency to corrode when used in salt water. About $200.

My question has to do with a typical inspection. Do inspectors ask that these be tested onshore using fresh water, or in the water. Hopefully(!) this will be the only time this pump will be used, and I'd like to understand how concerned I need to be with corrosion. Are these part of your post-race flush checklists?

Also, any comments of the strength of plastic vs. alloy construction?

Thanks,
Brian

[Mag27]

Brien,we never had ours tested in the 2 years wheve raced in P class.The first year when we tried to use a hand held they made us change it. Team Vixen.

[THEJOKER]

Brian :

These are some other things inspectors will be looking for.

1. Safety Kit (100 ft rope , flares , bottled water , safety flags , sea anchor , whistle, first aid kit)

2. Non Skid on back of boat (so divers don't slip if they have to enter your boat)

3. Grab handle on back of boat.

4. Blower in engine compartment.

5. VHF - make sure it works. They will test it.

6. If you have sharp edges on the dash / cockpit - they must be covered.

7. (2) fire extinguishers mounted in cockpit w/ metal pins.

8. Underside of your engine hatch painted bright yellow

9. (2) kill switches w/ back up lanyards.

10. Hydraulic steering

11. Aproved helmets / jackets.

12. Approved bolsters

It would not be a bad idea to get the firse supression system mounted in the engine compartment also. Hope this helps - BH

[RLW]

Hey BH, good info.
Why the bright yellow on the underside of engine hatch.
What determines an approved bolster, particularly a sit down configuration?
Can VHF be handheld and what is preferred?
Thanks,Russ

[audacity]

bring extra no skid with ya...they are picky about busting their ass in tech inspec.

i have had MANY intercom systems...it's a must in a race boat...it's amust on my pleasure boats...to date the handheld with our intercom has ZERO intf.

don't cheap out on intercoms or bilge pumps...manual and electric. your electrics should keep up with a drive torn off...mount the manual pump so you can pump like there is no tomorrow. make sure to through bolt it or mount it very secure....

read the rule book from cover to cover...you'll be the man...NEVER be timid to ask ANY question if you are not sure. then verify with the book or apba....i see a lot of incorrect things get passed on by seasoned racers.

Correct KILL switch set-up...

feel totally free to contact me directly if ya have any ?'s....i'll make sure we point in the right direction....tons of knowledgable people lurking!