So before I launch the boat this year, i slid under it to fill the couple of voids I had in the steps. With my current codition (healing broken leg) I got stuck a couple times and decided to take it to a professional.
He jacked the boat off the trailer and I have chips on all the steps due to the trailer only having a two single bunks which are point loading the steps.
I think I should notch the bunks at the steps about 12" long and recover them. What do you guys think?
I ran to Sequoit Harbor, the local Hustler Dealer, and all their Hustlers are on steel trailers with multiple bunkes supporting the boats everywhere, but the steps!!
They had (1) 26 Foot, (2) Cheetahs and (1) Slingshot. VERY COOL!!
I havent seen the set up on an aluminum trailer. I will probably have to mark the trailer with the boat on it and then see what I can do to make bunks.
Hate to buy a new trailer. Other than it sitting in the winter in my storage, i really dont trialer that much. But dont want to ruin my boat.
Apparently you have flat (non-stepped) bunks. I have, and you can, cut/notch the bunks just as you found a pic of one. Hustler may be able to get you the hull dimensions so you can cut the bunks without trying to measure the hull (Formula provided drawings for my hull when I asked)
The Myco could be improved on allot in my opinion, bunks over hanging on the steps.lots a gaps were a bunk could be supported better.I little re engineering would make it perfect.
Pick of the crack is from that bunk being alittle higher at that point, taking more weight.
Any added length of boards for support would have to be supports,I'm figuring some Angle braces would of worked?
The tongue V didn't fit just perfect, you can see the added spacer on the rubber and I replace the rubber every 2 years ,you can see its compressed.with out the strap the front would bounce in the V block,I still tie it straight down also.
Hope the picks help,hollar if ya mant some mesurments? take care of that leg broMost of the new mycos is see are painted alumium,I still would only buy a Myco,its pulls great.
After further evaluation, its not the bunks that chipped the gel. The top bolts in the bunks are too high and the boat rubs on the them when you pull the boat on the trailer!!
I need to relocate them to the lower hole and still redesign the bunks like your trailers. I would love to buy a new triler, but cant do it right now.
Thanks for all the pictures and info. More than enough info to get this better than it is!
After further evaluation, its not the bunks that chipped the gel. The top bolts in the bunks are too high and the boat rubs on the them when you pull the boat on the trailer!!
I need to relocate them to the lower hole and still redesign the bunks like your trailers. I would love to buy a new triler, but cant do it right now.
Thanks for all the pictures and info. More than enough info to get this better than it is!
most of the chips on the edges are air voids, they get bigger when ya repair them,Im finding out now$$$$.Its like when they bult the hull , they didnt push the figerglass and resin in to all the edges of the mold. youll find out the sides of the strakes are THIN and most of the material is in the bottom of the strakes,flat spots,When we were blocking the bottom in the sea strainer area on the outside bottom a small air void turned in to a 4in x15in
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Most of the new mycos is see are painted alumium,I still would only buy a Myco,its pulls great.
